Patongko: Thai Crullers
Patongko are airy, deep-fried dough strips, typically served in pairs as a morning staple. The secret lies in a long fermentation for the dough and a high-heat fry that turns the exterior crisp and golden while leaving the interior webbed with large, soft holes.
Patience is your primary ingredient.
The dough needs significant rest time to develop the elasticity required for those signature air pockets. Work in a cool environment so the dough doesn't over-proof during the long wait.
- large mixing bowl
- digital scale
- deep-fry thermometer
- heavy-bottomed pot
- spider strainer
What goes in.
- 500gall-purpose flour
- 320mlwater
- 10ginstant yeast
- 15gsugar
- 5gsalt
- 1/2 tspbaking soda
- 1/2 tspalum powder (ammonium bicarbonate if available)
- 1 literneutral frying oil
Creating the Interior Web
When rolling out the dough, aim for a consistent thickness. By stacking two strips and pressing them together with a chopstick, you force the dough to puff and separate in the oil, creating the signature internal structure.
The method.
Mix the dough
Dissolve the yeast, sugar, and salt in the water. Incorporate the dry ingredients until a shaggy mass forms. Knead for 5 minutes until smooth.
Fermentation
Cover the bowl tightly. Let the dough rest at room temperature for 2 hours, then refrigerate for at least 10 hours. Cold fermentation is non-negotiable for texture.
Shape
Roll the cold dough into a flat rectangle about 1/2 inch thick. Cut into 1-inch by 3-inch strips. Brush a tiny amount of water down the center of one strip, place another on top, and press firmly with a chopstick.
Fry
Heat oil to 375°F (190°C). Stretch the pair slightly before dropping into the oil. They will bob to the surface immediately. Flip constantly until the color is a deep, rich tan.
Other turns to take.
Sweet
Serve with a side of warm coconut custard or sweetened condensed milk for dipping.
Savory
Serve alongside a steaming bowl of rice porridge or clear vegetable soup.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Test your oil temperature with a small scrap of dough; it should puff up instantly and float.
Do not crowd the pot. If the temperature of the oil drops too low, the dough will soak up grease instead of puffing.
If the dough resists stretching, let it rest for 5 minutes to relax the gluten.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why use alum?
It helps the dough hold its shape during the rapid expansion in the high-heat oil and creates the specific crisp-but-tender bite.
How do I know they are cooked through?
The exterior will have a distinct, rigid crunch, and the color will be uniform rather than pale white.
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