Mastering Pasta Water
Most people dump their pasta water down the drain without a second thought. If you stop doing that, you gain the ability to turn a simple knob of butter or a handful of cheese into a luxurious, glossy sauce that coats every strand.
Use less water than you think.
The higher the concentration of starch, the better the emulsion. Starting with less water in your pot ensures the starch levels rise quickly as the pasta sheds its exterior.
- large pot
- heat-proof measuring cup
- tongs or spider strainer
What goes in.
- 3-4 qtwater
- 1 tbspkosher salt
- 1 lbdried pasta
The Starch-Fat Marriage
Starch acts as an emulsifier, forcing oil-based fats and water-based liquids to coexist. When you vigorously toss hot pasta with sauce and a splash of this water, the starch creates a creamy bridge that binds the two.
The method.
Boil with intent
Use a smaller pot than usual. You want the water to look murky and opaque by the time the pasta is al dente, not clear.
Harvest the liquid
Before draining the pasta, dip a heat-proof measuring cup into the pot and pull out at least one cup of the starchy water. Set it aside near your pan.
Finish in the pan
Transfer your pasta to a wide skillet containing your sauce base. Add a splash of the reserved water and toss over medium-high heat. The liquid will evaporate slightly and thicken, turning into a velvet-like coating.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If your sauce looks too tight or dry, add another splash of the reserved water while tossing.
Fresh pasta releases more starch than dried pasta; use a bit less of the water if you are working with handmade noodles.
Keep the reserved water hot; pouring cold water into a hot pan can shock the emulsion and cause it to break.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use plain water if I forgot to save some?
Plain water lacks the starch necessary for thickening. You are better off adding a tiny pinch of cornstarch to hot water, though it won't be as effective as the real thing.
How much salt should be in the water?
Salt the water until it tastes like the sea. Since the water eventually becomes part of your sauce, it is your primary vehicle for seasoning the entire dish.
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