Tagliatelle al Burro
This is a dish that relies entirely on the quality of your butter and the timing of your cook. When executed correctly, the butter and water transform into a silk-like coating that feels substantial on the tongue.
Control the emulsion
Keep your butter fridge-cold until the last second to ensure the sauce thickens steadily rather than breaking into oil and water.
- large pot for boiling water
- wide stainless steel skillet
- tongs
- colander
What goes in.
- 1 lbfresh egg tagliatelle
- 8 tbspunsalted European-style butter, chilled and cubed
- 1 tspkosher salt (plus more for pasta water)
- 1/2 cupreserved pasta cooking water
Vigorous movement
The sauce only forms when you constantly agitate the pasta and butter together, forcing the fat to marry the starchy water.
The method.
Boil the water
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt it until it tastes like the sea. Drop in the tagliatelle.
Reserve the water
When the pasta is just shy of al dente—about a minute before the package instructions suggest—dip a heat-proof measuring cup into the pot and save at least one cup of the cloudy, starchy water.
Build the base
Pour 1/2 cup of that starchy water into your wide skillet set over medium heat. Bring it to a simmer.
Whisk and toss
Add your cubed cold butter to the simmering water. Immediately add the pasta directly from the pot. Use tongs to vigorously toss the pasta through the liquid and melting butter.
Check the coating
Continue tossing until the sauce thickens and shines. If it looks oily or thin, add a splash more pasta water and keep tossing. The sauce is ready when it coats the noodles completely.
Other turns to take.
Herb-infused
Toss in finely minced fresh sage leaves during the final minute of tossing.
Black pepper
Toast cracked black peppercorns in the empty skillet for 30 seconds before adding the water.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always use fresh egg pasta; the porous surface holds onto the butter sauce better than dried semolina noodles.
If the sauce breaks, take the pan off the heat and add a tablespoon of ice-cold water while whisking hard to shock the emulsion back together.
Use a wide skillet rather than a deep pot so you have enough surface area to move the pasta easily.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use salted butter?
You can, but it is harder to control the seasoning levels, especially since you are using salted pasta water.
Why does my sauce look like separated oil?
The water wasn't starchy enough or the heat was too high. Save more pasta water next time, and keep the pan over low-to-medium heat only.
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