Simple Tomato Sugo
This is the baseline for nearly every pasta dish in my kitchen. It relies on the patience of the stove rather than complex steps, turning basic pantry staples into a dense, coating sauce.
Use the right tomatoes.
The quality of your canned whole peeled tomatoes determines the outcome. Avoid pre-seasoned varieties and opt for tomatoes packed in juice, not puree.
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- wooden spoon
- food mill or potato masher
What goes in.
- 2 cans (28 oz each)whole peeled plum tomatoes
- 1/4 cupextra virgin olive oil
- 3 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 1 small bunchfresh basil
- 1 tspkosher salt
Watching for the separation
The sugo is done when the oil begins to separate from the tomato solids and pools around the edges of the pan. This indicates that the water has evaporated and the acidity has mellowed.
The method.
Bloom the aromatics
Pour the olive oil into the cold saucepan and add the smashed garlic. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook until the garlic turns light gold. Remove the garlic if you prefer a subtle flavor, or leave it in for intensity.
Crush and simmer
Add the tomatoes to the pan, breaking them apart with your wooden spoon. Bring to a gentle bubble, then turn the heat to the lowest setting.
Cook down
Simmer uncovered for at least 60 minutes. Stir occasionally, scraping the sides of the pan so the sugars do not burn. The sauce should darken significantly.
Finish
Remove from heat. Stir in the fresh basil leaves and salt. If you prefer a smoother consistency, use a food mill to process the sauce before adding the basil.
Other turns to take.
Spicy Sugo
Add a teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes to the oil when you add the garlic.
Onion Base
Sauté one finely diced yellow onion in the olive oil until translucent before adding the garlic and tomatoes.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the sauce tastes too acidic toward the end, add an extra tablespoon of olive oil rather than sugar.
Crush the tomatoes by hand in a bowl before adding them to the pan for a more consistent texture.
Keep the heat low; high heat will scorch the tomato sugars and leave a bitter taste.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use paste tomatoes instead of canned?
You can, but they require peeling and seeding, which adds significant prep time. Canned tomatoes are picked at peak ripeness and provide a more reliable result year-round.
Why does my sauce taste metallic?
Usually, this happens when the tomatoes are not cooked long enough. Continue simmering until the color is a deep, brick red.
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