Basic Tomato Sauce
A good tomato sauce is less about a recipe and more about managing heat and time. When you reduce the tomatoes properly, the raw acidity gives way to a quiet, natural sweetness.
Watch the oil, not the clock.
The sauce is done when you see small pools of fat floating on the surface, indicating the water has fully evaporated. Use high-quality whole peeled tomatoes; the texture of the finished product depends entirely on the fruit you start with.
- Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven
- Wooden spoon
- Potato masher
What goes in.
- 2 cans (28 oz each)whole peeled plum tomatoes
- 1/4 cupextra virgin olive oil
- 4 clovesgarlic, peeled and smashed
- 1 tspkosher salt
- 3 sprigsfresh basil
Evaporation is flavor
You are looking for the sauce to shift from a bright, thin liquid to a thick, dark red paste. If you pull it off the heat too early, it will taste like canned juice.
The method.
Bloom the garlic
Pour the olive oil into a cold pot, add the garlic, and turn the heat to medium-low. Let the garlic turn a light golden color, about 3 minutes. Do not let it turn brown.
Incorporate the tomatoes
Pour in the tomatoes. Use your potato masher to break them into smaller pieces. Add the salt and stir well.
Simmer
Bring to a gentle bubble, then turn the heat to low. Let it cook uncovered for about 60 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the bottom from scorching.
Finish
Add the basil sprigs in the last 5 minutes of cooking. When the sauce has reduced by half and you see small beads of oil separating, remove the garlic cloves and basil, and serve.
Other turns to take.
Spicy Arrabbiata
Add one teaspoon of dried red chili flakes to the oil at the same time as the garlic.
Amatriciana-style
Render 4 ounces of diced guanciale or pancetta in the pot before adding the olive oil and garlic.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If your tomatoes taste too acidic, add a pinch of baking soda to neutralize the pH—the sauce will foam briefly, then settle.
Crush the tomatoes by hand before putting them in the pot for a more rustic, uneven texture.
Store leftovers in glass jars; the acid in tomatoes will eventually pick up a metallic taste if left in a tin can.
The ones that keep coming up.
Should I remove the tomato seeds?
No. The seeds contain pectin and flavor that help thicken the sauce as it reduces.
Can I use fresh tomatoes instead?
Only if they are at peak ripeness. If using fresh, blanch and peel them first, as skins do not break down during the hour-long simmer.
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