Sautéed Greens with Toasted Mustard Seeds
This is how you turn a bunch of tough greens into a focused side dish. By blooming the seeds first, you release their natural oils, which then cling to the leaves as they wilt.
Watch the seeds, not the clock.
Mustard seeds will pop and splatter like tiny fireworks; keep a lid or splatter guard nearby if you need one, but do not walk away from the pan once the oil is hot.
- large cast iron skillet or wok
- tongs
- chef's knife
What goes in.
- 1 lbmustard greens or kale, stems removed and chopped
- 2 tbspneutral high-smoke-point oil, such as grapeseed
- 1 tbspblack mustard seeds
- 2 clovesgarlic, thinly sliced
- 1/2 tspkosher salt
- 1 tspfresh lemon juice
Blooming the seeds
The mustard seeds must be heated in oil until they turn greyish-white and pop. If you skip this, the seeds remain raw and woody instead of becoming nutty and aromatic.
The method.
Heat the oil
Add the oil to a cold pan and set over medium-high heat. Wait for the oil to shimmer.
Pop the seeds
Drop the mustard seeds into the oil. As soon as you hear the first pop, cover the pan briefly. Keep the pan moving until the popping slows down to a rhythmic pace.
Infuse the aromatics
Slide the garlic into the oil. Stir for 10 seconds until it smells fragrant but has not yet turned brown.
Wilt the greens
Add the greens in handfuls. Use tongs to toss them constantly, coating them in the oil and seeds. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes until they are limp but still hold their shape.
Finish
Remove from heat immediately. Sprinkle with salt and squeeze the lemon juice over the top to balance the sharpness of the mustard.
Other turns to take.
Curried edge
Add a half-teaspoon of turmeric to the oil right after the seeds stop popping.
Chile heat
Drop one whole dried red chile into the oil with the mustard seeds for a lingering, slow heat.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Dry your greens thoroughly after washing them; if they are dripping wet, they will steam instead of sautéing.
Use a wide pan so the greens have room to hit the bottom of the skillet rather than stacking on top of each other.
If the pan gets too dry, add a tiny splash of water at the very end to help steam the final layer of greens.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if the seeds are burnt?
Burnt seeds turn black and lose their nutty aroma, smelling acrid instead. If this happens, you must start the oil process over.
Can I use yellow mustard seeds?
Yes, they are milder, but black mustard seeds provide the characteristic sharp, pungent punch needed to stand up to tough greens.
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