Crispy Spiced Potatoes
Crispy potatoes rely on removing surface starch and a high-heat finish. You boil the potatoes until they are barely tender, shake them in a colander to roughen the edges, and then roast them in fat until they shatter under your teeth.
Texture is all about the roughed-up surface.
Do not rush the boiling step or the fat temperature; the steam must escape before the crust can harden.
- large heavy-duty roasting pan or sheet tray
- large pot
- colander
- chef's knife
What goes in.
- 2 lbYukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1.5-inch chunks
- 1/3 cupduck fat, beef tallow, or high-heat oil
- 1 tspsmoked paprika
- 1/2 tspground cumin
- 1/2 tspgarlic powder
- 2 tspkosher salt
- 1/4 tspcayenne pepper
Roughening the edges
After boiling, drain the potatoes and shake them violently in the colander. This creates a starchy paste on the surface that fries into a brittle, glass-like shell.
The method.
Boil
Place potatoes in cold, salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for 8-10 minutes until the edges are soft but the centers hold firm.
Roughen
Drain well. Shake the potatoes in the colander until the exterior looks fuzzy and matte.
Heat Fat
Place your roasting pan in a 425°F oven with the fat for 10 minutes until the fat is shimmering and smoking slightly.
Sear
Carefully toss the potatoes in the hot fat. Ensure every piece is coated. Roast for 45 minutes, turning once halfway through.
Season
Pull from the oven when they are deep amber. Immediately toss with the spices while the oil is still hot enough to carry them.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use Yukon Golds; their starch content is ideal for creating a thick, crunchy crust.
Do not crowd the pan, or the potatoes will steam rather than fry.
Seasoning with salt *after* roasting prevents the spices from burning in the oven.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use olive oil?
You can, but it has a lower smoke point and lacks the deep animal-fat flavor that makes these potatoes distinct.
How do I know when they are done?
They should look like dark, rustic nuggets. If you poke one, the crust should offer resistance before yielding.
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