Making Yellow Curry Paste from Scratch
A store-bought jar often masks the raw, aggressive character of fresh turmeric and galangal. When you make this yourself, the heat of the chilies stays grounded while the citrus notes of the lemongrass brighten the entire pot.
Use your weight to break down the fibers.
Do not rush the pounding process. If you use a food processor, you will end up with a chopped salad rather than a cohesive paste; use a heavy stone mortar and pestle to release the essential oils.
- Large granite mortar and pestle
- Chef's knife
- Cutting board
What goes in.
- 5dried long red chilies, seeded and soaked in warm water
- 1 tspsea salt
- 2 tbspfresh lemongrass, finely sliced (white part only)
- 1 tbspfresh galangal, finely minced
- 1 tspfresh turmeric, minced
- 1 tbspshallots, minced
- 1 tbspgarlic, minced
- 1/2 tspshrimp paste
- 1 tspcoriander seeds, toasted and ground
Pounding in succession
Use a heavy, vertical motion to crush the ingredients against the sides of the mortar, rotating the bowl as you work. Always add ingredients from toughest to softest to ensure the fibrous bits are obliterated early.
The method.
Crush the aromatics
Place the soaked chilies and salt into the mortar. Pound until they break down into a coarse, deep red paste.
Add the lemongrass and galangal
Add these next. Pound repeatedly until they are no longer visible as individual slices but have been incorporated into the chili base.
Incorporate the soft ingredients
Add the turmeric, shallots, garlic, and shrimp paste. Use a circular grinding motion to blend them into the mixture until it becomes a thick, heavy, vibrant gold paste.
Finish with spices
Fold in the ground coriander seeds. Give the paste a final few rounds of pounding to distribute the dry spice evenly.
Other turns to take.
Extra Heat
Add 2-3 bird's eye chilies during the first step for a sharper, more piercing spice level.
Vegetarian
Omit the shrimp paste and add a half-teaspoon of fermented soy bean paste or extra salt to maintain the savory depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always slice your lemongrass as thin as possible before it hits the mortar; it is the most stubborn ingredient.
If the paste feels too dry, add a tiny splash of oil to help the fibers emulsify.
Store leftovers in a tightly sealed glass jar in the refrigerator; the flavors deepen over the first 24 hours.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a blender instead of a mortar and pestle?
You can, but the heat of the blades will cook the aromatics slightly and alter the texture. If you must use a blender, add a tablespoon of coconut milk to get the blades moving.
How long will the paste stay fresh?
It will keep for about a week in the refrigerator or up to three months if you freeze it in small, portioned cubes.
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