Making Fresh Thai Curry Paste
Fresh curry paste relies on the raw, fibrous power of roots and aromatics crushed together until they lose their individual identity and become a unified, thick emulsion. You build this base by pounding ingredients in a specific order, starting with the toughest components like galangal and lemongrass and ending with softer aromatics and shrimp paste.
Texture is flavor
Using a mortar and pestle is not just tradition; it shreds the cell walls of the fibers rather than cutting them, creating an intensity that a food processor simply cannot replicate.
- Large stone mortar and pestle
- Chef's knife
- Cutting board
What goes in.
- 10dried spur chilies, soaked in warm water until soft
- 1 tspsea salt
- 3 tbsplemongrass, finely sliced crosswise
- 1 tbspgalangal, finely minced
- 1 tbspkaffir lime zest, minced
- 1/4 cupshallots, sliced
- 3 tbspgarlic, peeled
- 1 tspshrimp paste
Use a heavy, rhythmic pound-and-drag motion
Pound the ingredients to break them down, then drag the pestle against the side of the mortar to smear them into a paste. Do not rush; wait until each addition is fully incorporated before adding the next.
The method.
Pound the chilies and salt
Place the softened chilies and salt in the mortar. Pound until the chilies become a fine, uniform red pulp.
Add the fibrous aromatics
Add the lemongrass, galangal, and lime zest. Pound and smear until the mixture looks dry and stringy, with no large visible chunks remaining.
Incorporate the softer elements
Add the shallots and garlic. Pound until these release their juices and the paste takes on a wet, thick consistency.
Finish with shrimp paste
Add the shrimp paste last, mashing it into the center of the mixture until fully combined.
Other turns to take.
Green Curry Paste
Swap the dried red chilies for fresh green bird's eye chilies and add a small handful of fresh cilantro roots.
Yellow Curry Paste
Add one tablespoon of freshly grated turmeric and a half teaspoon of toasted coriander seeds to the initial pounding stage.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always slice your lemongrass and galangal as thin as paper before they hit the mortar to save your wrists.
If you must use a food processor, keep it short and use small pulses to prevent the paste from heating up and losing its brightness.
Store the paste in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to one week or freeze in ice cube trays for three months.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why do I need to soak the dried chilies?
Dried chilies are leathery; soaking them makes them pliable enough to break down into a smooth paste rather than leaving sharp, tough flakes in your curry.
Can I replace galangal with ginger?
You can, but the flavor will be significantly less floral and more aggressive. Use half the amount of ginger if you make the substitution.
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