Smoked Tomato Sauce
The process is simple: let the heat strip the raw edge from the tomatoes. You are looking for the transition from bright, acidic fruit to a concentrated, earthy concentrate.
Watch for the color shift
The tomatoes should lose their structural integrity and take on a dark, mahogany hue. If they don't look slightly scorched, they aren't ready.
- Heavy cast-iron skillet
- Tongs
- Wooden spoon
What goes in.
- 3 lbvine-ripened tomatoes, halved
- 4 tbspextra virgin olive oil
- 3 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 1 sprigfresh thyme
- 1 tspsea salt
Don't fear the black skin
The smoke comes from the sugars in the tomato skin reacting to the high heat of the iron. Do not scrape away the dark bits; they are the core of the flavor.
The method.
Sear the fruit
Place the cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the oil and place the tomatoes cut-side down. Leave them undisturbed until the cut sides turn dark brown, about 6–8 minutes.
Incorporate aromatics
Flip the tomatoes. Scatter the smashed garlic and thyme into the gaps between the fruit. Reduce heat to medium.
Break down
Press down on the tomatoes with the back of your spoon. As they collapse into a thick, pulpy mess, stir in the salt.
Finish the reduction
Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the sauce clings to the spoon. Remove the thyme sprig before serving.
Other turns to take.
Spicy Char
Add a teaspoon of red pepper flakes when adding the garlic.
Anchovy Base
Melt two oil-packed anchovy fillets into the olive oil before adding the tomatoes.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a cast iron skillet to retain the heat necessary for a hard sear.
If using very large tomatoes, quarter them to increase the surface area touching the metal.
Save the garlic skins if they are large enough to easily pluck out at the end, or mince them if you prefer them left in the sauce.
The ones that keep coming up.
Should I peel the tomatoes?
No. The skins provide the structure and the smoky depth required for this specific sauce.
What if the tomatoes are too watery?
Keep the heat on medium-low and continue stirring; evaporation is the only way to concentrate the flavor.
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