Skordalia: The Garlic and Potato Emulsion
This is a dish of restraint and rhythm. You cannot rush the incorporation of the oil; if you pour too quickly, the emulsion breaks and you are left with a greasy mash instead of a cohesive, velvety sauce.
The garlic dictates the soul of this dish
Use fresh, firm garlic bulbs. If the cloves have sprouted green centers, remove them; they contribute a bitterness that can overpower the finished sauce.
- Mortar and pestle
- Potato ricer
- Large mixing bowl
- Whisk
What goes in.
- 1 lbYukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
- 6-8 clovesgarlic, peeled
- 1 tspcoarse sea salt
- 1/2 cupextra virgin olive oil
- 2 tbspred wine vinegar
Respect the steady pour
Treat the oil like you are making mayonnaise. Add it drop by drop at first until the potatoes absorb the fat, then move to a very thin, constant stream.
The method.
Boil the potatoes
Simmer the potatoes in salted water until they are tender enough to fall apart under the pressure of a fork. Drain them and let them steam dry in the colander for five minutes.
Mash the base
Pass the hot potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl. This ensures no lumps remain, which is vital for a smooth final texture.
Crush the garlic
Use the mortar and pestle to work the garlic and sea salt into a smooth, tacky paste. There should be no visible chunks of garlic left.
Combine
Fold the garlic paste into the warm potato mash. Add the vinegar and mix thoroughly.
Emulsify
Begin whisking the olive oil into the potato mixture. Alternate between small splashes of oil and vigorous whisking. Continue until all oil is incorporated and the sauce is pale and glossy.
Other turns to take.
Bread-based
Replace potatoes with 2 cups of crustless stale sourdough bread soaked in water and squeezed completely dry.
Nut-enriched
Add a half-cup of finely ground blanched almonds to the garlic paste before incorporating it into the potatoes.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Serve at room temperature; the flavors sharpen significantly when the sauce is not chilled.
If the sauce becomes too thick, adjust the consistency with a teaspoon of warm water.
Taste as you go—if the garlic bite is too aggressive, let the sauce sit for 30 minutes to mellow before serving.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a food processor?
You can, but it is easy to overwork the potatoes, which makes them gummy. Use a pulse setting and stop the moment the oil is fully integrated.
What is the best way to serve this?
Serve it as a dip for fried eggplant, roasted beets, or crusty bread.
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