Bratkartoffeln
The goal here is contrast: a shattered, fried exterior shielding a tender, creamy center. If you rush the heat, you end up with greasy discs; if you crowd the pan, they steam instead of fry.
The potato is the variable.
Use waxy potatoes like Yukon Gold or red-skinned varieties. Starchy potatoes like Russets will fall apart under the spatula.
- large cast-iron or carbon steel skillet
- mandoline or sharp chef's knife
- fish spatula
What goes in.
- 2 lbwaxy potatoes (Yukon Gold or similar), scrubbed
- 4 ozbacon or slab pancetta, diced
- 1yellow onion, finely diced
- 3 tbsprendered lard or high-smoke-point oil
- to tastecoarse sea salt
- 1 tbspfresh marjoram or chives, minced
Don't touch the potatoes.
After spreading the slices into the pan, leave them alone for at least five minutes. Moving them too early tears the crust and prevents the crisp layer from forming.
The method.
Boil the potatoes
Boil the whole, unpeeled potatoes until just tender—a knife should pierce them with little resistance, but they shouldn't be mushy. Drain, let them cool completely, then peel and slice into 1/4 inch thick rounds.
Render the fat
In your skillet over medium heat, fry the diced bacon until the fat has rendered out and the meat is crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon, leaving the fat behind.
The first fry
Add the lard to the bacon fat. Increase heat to medium-high. Lay the potato slices in a single layer. Fry undisturbed until the bottom side is a deep, burnished gold.
Flip and finish
Flip the slices. Add the onion to the gaps between the potatoes. Cook until the second side of the potato is brown and the onions have softened and turned amber.
Season
Return the crispy bacon to the pan, toss everything once, sprinkle with salt and the fresh herbs, and serve immediately.
Other turns to take.
Vegetarian
Replace bacon and lard with clarified butter or a high-quality neutral oil and finish with a pinch of smoked paprika for depth.
With Caraway
Add a teaspoon of whole caraway seeds to the fat before adding the potatoes for a traditional aromatic punch.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Cold potatoes are mandatory. If you use hot potatoes, they will crumble into hash.
Avoid overcrowding. If your pan isn't large enough, fry in two batches rather than piling the potatoes high.
If the potatoes start to stick, add a small knob of butter in the final minute to help release them and add a final sheen.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use raw potatoes?
You can, but they take much longer to cook, often resulting in a burned exterior and a raw, crunchy middle. Pre-boiling ensures the interior is creamy.
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