Making Proper Hollandaise Sauce
A good hollandaise has the consistency of heavy cream and a bright, sharp finish. It requires your full attention for ten minutes, but the payoff is a rich, velvety sauce that turns basic eggs into a meal.
Watch the temperature, not the clock.
The egg yolks are the foundation. If they get too hot, they set, and you have to start over.
- small saucepan
- stainless steel bowl
- whisk
- small ladle
What goes in.
- 3large egg yolks
- 1 tbspfresh lemon juice
- 1/2 cupunsalted butter, melted and warm
- 1 pinchcayenne pepper
- to tastekosher salt
Steady Stream Incorporation
Whisk the yolks while drizzling the butter in a drop at a time at first. Only once the mixture thickens and looks like mayonnaise can you start adding the butter in a thin, steady stream.
The method.
Prepare the double boiler
Fill your saucepan with an inch of water and bring it to a bare simmer. Place your mixing bowl on top, ensuring the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water.
Whisk the base
Add the egg yolks and lemon juice to the bowl. Whisk constantly until the yolks thicken and turn a pale, creamy yellow.
Drizzle the butter
Begin adding the warm, melted butter one drop at a time, whisking continuously. Once the mixture starts to hold its shape, increase to a thin, slow stream.
Season and serve
Remove from the heat immediately once all butter is incorporated. Stir in the cayenne and salt, then taste for brightness.
Other turns to take.
Béarnaise
Replace the lemon juice with a reduction of white wine vinegar, shallots, and fresh tarragon.
Mousseline
Fold in two tablespoons of softly whipped cream just before serving for a lighter, aerated texture.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a teaspoon of warm water to loosen it.
Keep the butter warm, not hot; if the butter is boiling, it will scramble the eggs.
Serve immediately, as hollandaise does not hold well once it cools.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my sauce turn into a pool of oil?
The emulsion broke, likely because you added the butter too quickly. Put a fresh yolk in a clean bowl and slowly whisk the broken sauce into that new yolk.
Can I make this ahead of time?
Technically yes, but it is best served right away. If you must keep it, hold it in a thermos or a warm spot—not hot—for no more than 30 minutes.
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