Food EditionCookFrenchBreakfastMaking Proper Hollandaise
15 minIntermediateServes 4
French · Breakfast

Making Proper Hollandaise

This sauce is not about speed; it is about paying attention to the heat. If you rush, the eggs scramble; if you go too slow, the butter never incorporates.

Total time
15 min
Hands-on
15 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Control your temperature above all else.

The water in your bain-marie should be steaming, not boiling, to ensure the eggs stay liquid and emulsify rather than cooking through.

  • small stainless steel mixing bowl
  • saucepan for the water bath
  • whisk
  • measuring cup
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 3large egg yolks
  • 1 tbspfresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 cupunsalted butter, melted and warm
  • 1 pinchfine sea salt
  • 1 pinchcayenne pepper
The key technique

Slow-stream incorporation

Add the butter drop by drop at first to establish the emulsion. Only once the mixture begins to thicken can you increase the stream of butter.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Prepare the water bath

    Fill your saucepan with two inches of water and bring it to a bare simmer. Turn the heat to its lowest setting.

  2. Whisk the base

    Place the yolks and lemon juice in your bowl over the water. Whisk continuously until the yolks pale in color and increase in volume, about 3 minutes.

  3. Incorporate the butter

    Remove the bowl from the heat for a moment. Add the warm butter in a thin, steady trickle while whisking vigorously without pause.

  4. Finish the texture

    Continue until all butter is incorporated and the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Season with salt and cayenne, then keep in a warm—but not hot—spot until serving.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Béarnaise

Replace the lemon juice with a reduction of white wine vinegar, shallots, and fresh tarragon.

Mousseline

Fold in two tablespoons of softly whipped heavy cream just before serving for a lighter, airy texture.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

If the sauce breaks, add a teaspoon of boiling water and whisk rapidly; it will often pull back together.

Tip

Do not let the bowl touch the water; the steam does the work, not the direct heat.

Tip

Use a glass or metal bowl; plastic can retain cold and hinder the thickening process.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

How do I know if the sauce is too hot?

The whisk will start to pull up streaks of scrambled egg, or the bottom of the bowl will feel painfully hot to the touch.

Can I make this ahead of time?

Hollandaise is best served immediately. If kept, store it in a thermos to maintain a stable, warm temperature.

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