Food EditionCookFrenchBreakfastMaking Proper Hollandaise Sauce
15 minIntermediateServes 4
French · Breakfast

Making Proper Hollandaise Sauce

You do not need a double boiler to make a stable sauce, just a heavy-bottomed saucepan and your full attention. It is a temperamental mixture, but it yields the exact balance of richness and brightness that defines a proper eggs benedict.

Total time
15 min
Hands-on
15 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Temperature control is your only goal.

Keep your butter warm but not boiling, and ensure your whisking rhythm is consistent to prevent the proteins from setting too fast.

  • Heavy-bottomed saucepan
  • Balloon whisk
  • Small bowl
  • Measuring cup
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 3large egg yolks
  • 1/2 cupunsalted butter, melted and hot
  • 1 tbspfresh lemon juice
  • 1 pinchcayenne pepper
  • to tastekosher salt
The key technique

Adding the fat

Drizzle the melted butter in a drop-by-drop fashion at the beginning. If you pour too fast, the fat will break away from the yolks and create an oily mess.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Whisk the yolks

    Place the yolks and lemon juice into your saucepan. Whisk vigorously over the lowest possible heat until the mixture pales in color and begins to increase in volume.

  2. Incorporate the butter

    Remove the pan from the heat. Begin adding the hot melted butter one teaspoon at a time, whisking constantly until the sauce thickens into a glossy, stable ribbon.

  3. Season

    Once all the butter is incorporated, stir in the salt and cayenne. Taste it immediately; it should be rich with a sharp, bright finish.

  4. Maintain

    Keep the sauce in a warm—not hot—spot until serving. If it sits too long, it will lose its texture.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Béarnaise

Replace the lemon juice with a reduction of white wine vinegar, shallots, and fresh tarragon.

Mousseline

Fold in two tablespoons of softly whipped cream just before serving for a lighter, airy consistency.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

If the sauce breaks and looks oily, add a teaspoon of boiling water and whisk vigorously; it will often pull the emulsion back together.

Tip

Never let the bottom of your pan get hot enough to touch; if you hear the eggs sizzling, remove the pan from the burner immediately.

Tip

The sauce is done when it clings to the back of a metal spoon and leaves a clean trail when you run your finger through it.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

How do I keep it warm without it splitting?

Place the bowl or pan in a larger bowl filled with warm tap water. Direct heat will cause it to separate.

Can I make this ahead of time?

Hollandaise is best served immediately. It does not reheat well because the butter will separate from the proteins as soon as it gets too hot.

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