Flaky Scallion Pancakes
This is a study in texture. You are building a dough that handles like clay and layering it with aromatic fat until you have a coiled snail of pastry, which is then pressed flat and seared until the edges turn deep bronze.
Master the dough temperature
The water must be nearly boiling to ensure the dough remains elastic and does not spring back when you try to roll it out.
- large mixing bowl
- rolling pin
- heavy cast-iron skillet
- pastry brush
What goes in.
- 2 1/2 cupsall-purpose flour
- 3/4 cupboiling water
- 1/4 cuptoasted sesame oil
- 2 cupsscallions, green parts only, sliced thin
- 1 tspkosher salt
- 3 tbspneutral oil, for frying
Creating the strata
By rolling the dough into a tight log and then coiling that log into a snail shape, you trap pockets of oil and scallions that create distinct, flaky layers during the final sear.
The method.
Make the dough
Pour the boiling water into the flour, mixing with chopsticks until a shaggy mass forms. Let it cool slightly, then knead on a clean counter for 5 minutes until smooth. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes.
Laminate the layers
Divide the dough into four pieces. Roll one piece into a thin, large circle. Brush liberally with sesame oil, sprinkle with salt and a handful of scallions.
Coil and flatten
Roll the circle into a tight rope, then wind that rope into a snail shape, tucking the end underneath. Use the rolling pin to gently flatten the snail back into a disc, about 1/4-inch thick.
Sear
Heat the neutral oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Fry the pancake for 3 to 4 minutes per side, pressing down occasionally with a spatula, until the crust is blistered and golden brown.
Other turns to take.
Sichuan Peppercorn
Toast whole Sichuan peppercorns, grind them into a powder, and mix into the salt before seasoning the dough.
Bacon Fat
Replace half of the sesame oil with chilled, rendered bacon fat for a heavier, porky depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the dough resists rolling, walk away for 5 minutes; this allows the gluten to relax.
Do not over-stuff the pancakes, or they will tear when you roll them thin.
Keep cooked pancakes in a warm oven while you finish the remaining batches.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use cold water for the dough?
No. Cold water creates a chewy, tough noodle-like dough. Boiling water is necessary for the specific tender-crisp result.
Why did my pancake come out dense?
The dough was likely rolled too thick or the heat was too high, causing the outside to brown before the interior layers could cook through.
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