Crispy Roasted Potatoes
Crispy roasted potatoes rely on parboiling with a pinch of baking soda to roughen the surface, followed by roasting in high-heat fat until the edges shatter under a fork. The goal is a stark contrast between a glass-like crust and a soft, steamed center.
The roughened surface is your engine.
Do not skip the parboil. You need to create a starchy paste on the outside of the potato; that is what turns into the golden, crunchy shell in the oven.
- Large stockpot
- Colander
- Heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet
- Sturdy metal spatula
What goes in.
- 3 lbRusset potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
- 2 tbspKosher salt (for the water)
- 1/2 tspBaking soda
- 1/2 cupDuck fat or neutral high-smoke-point oil
- 3 sprigsFresh rosemary
- 4 clovesGarlic, smashed
- To tasteFlaky sea salt and black pepper
Aggressive Agitation
After draining the parboiled potatoes, shake them violently in the colander. This breaks down the exterior edges into a fine, pasty starch that fries instantly upon hitting the hot fat.
The method.
Parboil the potatoes
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the kosher salt and baking soda. Add the potato chunks and boil for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the edges are soft but the centers hold firm.
Create the texture
Drain the potatoes and return them to the empty pot. Let them sit for a minute to steam off excess moisture, then shake the pot vigorously until the surface of each chunk looks fuzzy and coated in a white paste.
Heat the fat
Pour the fat onto the baking sheet and place it in a 425°F (220°C) oven. Wait until the fat shimmers and just begins to smoke.
Roast
Carefully transfer the potatoes to the hot baking sheet. Toss them to coat thoroughly. Roast for 45 minutes, turning them once or twice with a spatula, until they are deep mahogany and rigid.
Finish
Add the garlic and rosemary in the last 10 minutes of roasting. Remove from the oven, drain briefly on a wire rack, and finish with flaky salt.
Other turns to take.
Spiced
Toss the finished potatoes with smoked paprika and cumin while they are still hot enough for the spices to adhere.
Vinegar-Finished
Drizzle a teaspoon of high-quality sherry vinegar over the potatoes immediately after they exit the oven for a sharp brightness.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never overcrowd the baking sheet; if the potatoes are touching, they will steam instead of fry.
Use a metal spatula to scrape the bottom of the pan to ensure you catch all the browned bits.
Russets are essential because of their high starch content; waxy potatoes like reds will not produce the same crust.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use olive oil?
Extra virgin olive oil has a low smoke point and may burn at 425°F. If you prefer the flavor, use a light olive oil or finish with extra virgin after roasting.
Why the baking soda?
It raises the pH of the water, which breaks down the pectin on the surface of the potato much faster, helping you achieve that rough, starch-heavy coating.
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