Making Thai Red Curry Paste from Scratch
A good curry paste relies on the sequence in which you add ingredients to the mortar. You are looking for a smooth, heavy texture where the fibers of the lemongrass and galangal have been completely broken down.
Commit to the mortar and pestle.
A food processor creates a watery purée, but a granite mortar and pestle crushes the fibers to release their oils. Do not rush the process; the heat of your work is part of the extraction.
- Heavy granite mortar and pestle
- Small skillet for toasting spices
- Chef's knife
What goes in.
- 10dried spur chilies, soaked in warm water for 15 minutes
- 1 tspsea salt
- 3 tbsplemongrass, finely sliced crosswise
- 1 tbspgalangal, finely minced
- 1 tspkaffir lime zest, finely minced
- 3 tbspshallots, minced
- 2 tbspgarlic, minced
- 1 tsptoasted coriander seeds
- 1/2 tsptoasted cumin seeds
- 1 tspshrimp paste
Hard to Soft
Always start with the driest, toughest ingredients like dried chilies and salt. Add the fibrous stalks next, and finish with the soft aromatics like shallots and shrimp paste, which provide the moisture to bind everything together.
The method.
Toast the spices
Place the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat. Shake until they smell fragrant, then grind them into a powder in the mortar and remove.
Break down the chilies
Add the soaked chilies and salt to the mortar. Pound until the chilies are reduced to a fine, red pulp.
Add the fibrous aromatics
Add the lemongrass, galangal, and lime zest. Pound and rotate the pestle firmly until you have a coarse paste without any large chunks of stalk remaining.
Incorporate the remainder
Add the shallots, garlic, and toasted spice powder. Continue pounding until uniform. Finally, stir in the shrimp paste.
Other turns to take.
Green Curry Paste
Swap the dried spur chilies for fresh green bird's eye chilies and increase the amount of fresh cilantro roots.
Vegetarian Version
Replace the shrimp paste with an extra half-teaspoon of salt and a dash of light soy sauce.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Slice your lemongrass and galangal as thinly as possible before they hit the mortar to save your arm.
If the paste feels too dry, add a tiny splash of water or coconut milk to help the ingredients bind.
Store the paste in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to a week, or freeze it in ice cube trays for later.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a blender?
You can, but the heat from the blades will dull the flavor of the fresh herbs and the texture will be too thin. If you must use one, use short pulses.
Why do I need to soak the dried chilies?
Soaking softens the thick skins, allowing them to break down into a paste rather than remaining as tough, rubbery bits.
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