Making Za'atar at Home
This isn't a precise chemical formula, but a balance of textures. Once you master the ratio, you stop buying the dusty, pre-mixed tins and start making it when you need it.
Freshness is the only requirement.
Sumac should have a sharp, dark red hue and smell like tart berries; if it looks like brown dust, it is past its prime and will ruin the balance.
- small heavy-bottomed skillet
- mortar and pestle
- glass storage jar
What goes in.
- 1/2 cupdried wild thyme (za'atar herb)
- 1/4 cupsesame seeds
- 3 tbspground sumac
- 1 tspsea salt
Break, don't powder
Use the mortar and pestle to gently fracture the dried thyme and sesame seeds. You want texture, not a fine dust.
The method.
Toast the sesame seeds
Place the seeds in a dry skillet over medium-low heat. Stir constantly until they turn a pale, sandy gold. Remove them from the pan immediately so they don't keep cooking.
Crush the thyme
Add the dried thyme to your mortar. Give it a few gentle turns with the pestle until the leaves break down into smaller, uniform flakes.
Combine
Add the toasted sesame seeds, sumac, and salt to the mortar. Stir everything together with a spoon until the color is consistent.
Store
Transfer to an airtight jar. Keep it in a dark cupboard; heat and light will strip the flavor from the thyme within weeks.
Other turns to take.
Aleppo kick
Add 1 teaspoon of Aleppo pepper flakes if you want a mild, fruity heat that lingers on the back of the palate.
Citrus forward
Increase the sumac by a tablespoon if you prefer a sharper, more acidic finish.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always toast the sesame seeds separately from the herbs; thyme burns in seconds.
If you cannot find wild thyme, look for hyssop or marjoram, though the flavor profile will shift significantly.
Check your sumac by tasting a tiny pinch; it should provide a distinct citrus-like brightness.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why does my za'atar turn bitter?
You likely burned the sesame seeds during the toasting phase or the thyme was old. Always keep the heat low and move the seeds constantly.
Can I use a blender?
Avoid it. A blender will turn the mixture into a fine powder, destroying the intended texture and bruising the herbs.
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