Green Papaya Salad
This is a dish of textures. The raw, firm papaya needs to be shredded and pounded to lose its starchiness and soften just enough to accept the dressing while keeping its snap.
The importance of the mortar
Do not skip the pounding step; it is the only way to marry the dressing to the fibrous fruit. If you do not have a large stone or clay mortar, use a heavy bowl and a rolling pin.
- large mortar and pestle
- julienne peeler or sharp chef's knife
- mixing bowl
What goes in.
- 1 smallgreen papaya, peeled and shredded
- 2 clovesgarlic, peeled
- 2-3bird's eye chilies
- 2 tbspfish sauce
- 2 tbspfresh lime juice
- 1 tbsppalm sugar, finely chopped
- 1/4 cupcherry tomatoes, halved
- 2 tbsproasted peanuts, crushed
- 1 handfullong beans, cut into 1-inch lengths
Pounding for flavor penetration
Use the pestle to gently crush the garlic and chilies first, then add the beans and tomatoes. You are looking to break the cell walls of the vegetables so they release their liquid, which will then emulsify with the lime and fish sauce.
The method.
Prepare the base
Drop the garlic and chilies into the mortar. Pound until they form a coarse paste.
Build the dressing
Add the palm sugar, lime juice, and fish sauce. Stir with a spoon or pestle until the sugar is fully dissolved.
Incorporate the solids
Add the long beans and tomatoes. Give them a few light taps with the pestle to bruise them without turning them into mush.
Toss the papaya
Add the shredded papaya. Use the pestle in one hand to gently fold the papaya into the dressing while using a large spoon in the other to keep it moving, ensuring every strand is coated.
Finish and serve
Transfer to a serving plate and top with the crushed peanuts immediately.
Other turns to take.
Dried Shrimp
Add one tablespoon of small dried shrimp during the garlic-pounding step for an extra hit of salt and depth.
Salted Crab
Add a small piece of fermented salted crab for a pungent, brine-heavy finish common in street-style versions.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Shred the papaya using a julienne peeler for thin, uniform strips that hold dressing better than knife-cut pieces.
If the papaya is too tough, soak the shreds in ice water for ten minutes, then drain and pat bone-dry before starting.
Adjust the chilies based on your preference for heat; removing the seeds reduces the intensity.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use regular papaya?
No. Ripe orange papaya is soft and sweet; it will disintegrate under the pestle. You must use the hard, unripe green variety.
How long can I keep this in the fridge?
It is best eaten within 30 minutes of preparation. The salt in the dressing draws moisture out of the papaya quickly, turning it limp and watery if it sits too long.
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