Cooking Dried Beans
Cooking beans from scratch requires patience rather than skill. Once you master the rhythm of the simmer, you will have a foundation for soups, salads, and sides that canned varieties cannot replicate.
Check your beans first.
Sort through the dried beans on a light-colored surface to remove stones or shriveled debris. Old beans will never soften regardless of how long you simmer them, so start with a fresh batch.
- Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven
- Colander
- Slotted spoon
What goes in.
- 1 lbdried beans
- 8 cupswater, plus extra for soaking
- 1yellow onion, peeled and halved
- 2garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 sprigfresh thyme or bay leaf
- To tastekosher salt
Maintaining a gentle convection
Keep the water at a faint, rolling simmer where only one or two bubbles break the surface every few seconds. Aggressive boiling will shatter the bean skins before the insides are creamy.
The method.
Soak
Place beans in a bowl and cover with three inches of cold water. Let them sit at room temperature for 8 hours or overnight. They should double in size.
Drain and rinse
Drain the soaking water and give the beans a thorough rinse under cold running water to remove the starches that cause gas.
Bring to a boil
Combine beans, fresh water, onion, garlic, and herbs in the pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then immediately reduce to the lowest possible simmer.
Simmer
Partially cover the pot. Check after one hour. Continue simmering, checking every 20 minutes, until a bean pressed against the side of the pot yields with no resistance.
Season
Once tender, turn off the heat and stir in salt. Let them sit in the cooking liquid for 15 minutes before draining to ensure the flavor penetrates the interior.
Other turns to take.
Creamy Beans
Add two tablespoons of olive oil or fat to the cooking water to yield a richer, velvet-textured broth.
Deep Smoke
Add a smoked ham hock or piece of smoked bacon rind to the pot during the simmer for depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If you forget to soak, cover the beans with boiling water, let them sit for one hour, then proceed with the simmer.
If the water level drops below the top of the beans during cooking, add small amounts of hot water to keep them submerged.
Save the cooking liquid; it is rich with starch and adds body to any soup or stew you make later.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why are my beans still hard after two hours?
The beans are likely old. Dried beans lose their ability to absorb water over time, and if they have been on a shelf for more than a year, they may never soften.
Can I use a slow cooker?
Yes, cook on low for 6 to 8 hours. Note that beans often cook more unevenly in a slow cooker compared to a stove-top simmer.
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