Mastering the Thai Aromatics Base
The foundation of most Thai dishes is the 'krueng gaeng' or spice paste. It is a lesson in patience and force; how you process your aromatics determines how they bloom in the wok.
Texture is flavor
Do not reach for a food processor unless you are preparing enough for a crowd. A machine will shear the fibers and make the aromatics watery; a mortar and pestle crushes them to release their aromatic oils.
- granite mortar and pestle
- chef's knife
- cutting board
What goes in.
- 1/4 cupshallots, peeled and roughly chopped
- 3 tbspgarlic cloves, peeled
- 2 tbspgalangal, peeled and minced
- 2 tbsplemongrass, bottom 3 inches only, sliced thin
- 1/2 tspsalt
Crushing, not pounding
Use a heavy, rhythmic grinding motion. Apply pressure with the pestle while rotating it against the mortar walls, effectively smearing the ingredients against the stone until they form a coarse, uniform paste.
The method.
Prepare the lemongrass
Strip away the tough, woody outer layers of the lemongrass stalk. Use only the soft, pale inner core at the base and slice it into discs as thin as paper.
Incorporate the salt
Place the lemongrass and salt in the mortar first. The salt acts as an abrasive, helping to break down the fibrous lemongrass into a fine pulp before you add the wetter ingredients.
Add the aromatics
Add the galangal, then the shallots, and finally the garlic. Adding them in this order ensures the hardest fibers are broken down first.
Grind until cohesive
Continue the grinding motion until the mixture is no longer distinct pieces, but a unified, moist paste that clings together.
Other turns to take.
Spicy Base
Add 5-10 dried bird's eye chilies to the mortar before the lemongrass to incorporate heat into the paste foundation.
Shrimp Paste Addition
Add 1 teaspoon of fermented shrimp paste during the final stage of grinding for a deep, pungent profile essential for authentic curries.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Keep a flat palm over the top of the mortar while grinding to prevent bits of lemongrass from flying out.
If the paste feels too dry, add a tiny splash of water or oil to help the mortar catch the ingredients.
Fresh galangal is firm; if it's too tough to crush, grate it on a microplane before adding it to the mortar.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I substitute ginger for galangal?
You can, but the flavor will change. Galangal is piney and sharp, while ginger is citrusy and hot. Use a 1:1 ratio if you have no other choice.
How long can I store this paste?
It is best used immediately. If you must store it, cover the surface with a thin layer of oil and keep it in the refrigerator for no more than two days.
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