Making Thai Curry Paste from Scratch
Store-bought jars often lack the sharp, bright top notes of fresh herbs. By pounding your own paste, you capture the fragrance of the galangal and citrus of the lemongrass before they oxidize.
Commit to the physical labor of the mortar and pestle.
Your goal is a completely homogenous paste with no distinct chunks remaining. If you use a machine, you will get a chopped salad rather than a cohesive curry base.
- Heavy granite mortar and pestle
- Chef's knife
- Cutting board
What goes in.
- 10dried spur chilies, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes
- 1 tspsalt
- 2 tbsplemongrass, finely minced (white bulb only)
- 1 tbspgalangal, finely minced
- 1 tspkaffir lime zest, finely minced
- 3 tbspshallots, minced
- 2 tbspgarlic, minced
- 1 tspshrimp paste
- 1 tsptoasted coriander seeds, ground
Pounding in sequence
Start with the hardest ingredients—chilies and salt—to create a base paste. Add fibrous items like lemongrass and galangal gradually, pounding until the mixture is uniform before introducing the softer shallots and garlic.
The method.
Pound the chilies and salt
Add the soaked chilies and salt to the mortar. Use a vertical pounding motion until the chilies break down into a dark, coarse mash.
Incorporate the stalks
Add the lemongrass, galangal, and lime zest. Pound with consistent pressure until the fibrous pieces disappear into the chili paste.
Add the aromatics
Fold in the shallots, garlic, and coriander. Pound and twist the pestle against the sides of the mortar to ensure no large pieces of shallot remain.
Finish with shrimp paste
Add the shrimp paste and pound for two more minutes until the mixture is glossy, dense, and uniform.
Other turns to take.
Green Curry Paste
Replace dried spur chilies with 20 fresh bird's eye chilies and add a handful of fresh cilantro roots.
Yellow Curry Paste
Add 1 tablespoon of freshly grated turmeric and a pinch of toasted cumin seeds to the base.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always remove the seeds from the dried chilies if you prefer a milder heat profile.
If your paste feels too dry, add a teaspoon of water or neutral oil to loosen it.
Store the paste in an airtight glass jar in the refrigerator for up to one week, or freeze it in ice cube trays.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a food processor?
You can, but the heat generated by the blades and the inability of the machine to fully break down fibers results in a thin, watery consistency that lacks the depth of a pounded paste.
Why is the shrimp paste necessary?
The shrimp paste provides the essential saltiness and deep, fermented undertone that ties the fresh, acidic herbs together.
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