Coconut Milk Bases
The secret to a base that doesn't just taste like warmed milk is managing the coconut oil. If you dump the can into a pan, it stays flat; if you fry it, you build a foundation.
Don't shake the can until you have the cream separated.
Use full-fat coconut milk; the low-fat versions contain stabilizers that prevent the cream from separating properly.
- heavy-bottomed skillet or wok
- silicone spatula
- chef's knife
What goes in.
- 1 can (13.5 oz)full-fat coconut milk, chilled
- 2 tbspred or green curry paste
- 1 tbspfish sauce
- 1 tsppalm sugar or brown sugar
- 4kaffir lime leaves, torn
Breaking the Cream
Simmer the thickest part of the coconut milk until the water evaporates and the white cream turns into a shimmering, clear oil. This 'cracking' process intensifies the coconut flavor and ensures your curry paste fries rather than boils.
The method.
Separate the cream
Open the chilled can without shaking. Scoop the hardened thick white cream from the top into your skillet, leaving the thin liquid in the can for later.
Fry the cream
Place the skillet over medium-high heat. Stir constantly until the cream bubbles, then begins to shrink and release clear oil. You will see the texture shift from a solid mass to an oily liquid.
Bloom the aromatics
Add your curry paste directly into the oil. Stir and press the paste into the fat for 2 minutes until it becomes deeply fragrant and the oil takes on the color of the spices.
Build the sauce
Pour in the remaining thin coconut milk from the can. Scrape the bottom of the pan to release the browned bits, add the lime leaves, and simmer until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Balance
Stir in the fish sauce and sugar. Taste. Adjust until the saltiness of the fish sauce is rounded out by the sweetness of the sugar and the richness of the coconut.
Other turns to take.
Tom Kha style
Steep bruised lemongrass stalks and galangal in the thin liquid before adding it to the fried paste.
Rich braise
Add roasted squash or potatoes to the finished base and let them simmer until soft.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the sauce looks broken or oily at the end, add a splash of warm water and whisk vigorously to re-emulsify.
Add vegetables or proteins that require longer cooking times before you add the thin liquid.
Do not boil the sauce aggressively after adding the coconut milk, or the cream may curdle.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why does my coconut milk turn into a grainy mess?
You likely cooked it over too high of a heat or added the liquid too quickly. Keep the heat at a steady, gentle simmer.
Can I use light coconut milk?
No. Light versions have water added and will not 'crack' to release the necessary oils for the base.