Frijoles Charros
This dish is a staple of northern camp cooking, built on the slow extraction of flavor from salt pork and aromatics. You want to cook these until the beans lose their chalky center and the fat has emulsified into the broth.
Patience is your primary ingredient.
Do not rush the softening of the beans, as adding salt too early will keep the skins tough. Wait until the beans are nearly tender before introducing the salted meats.
- heavy-bottomed Dutch oven
- wooden spoon
- chef's knife
What goes in.
- 1 lbdried pinto beans, picked over and rinsed
- 8 ozbacon, chopped into small lardons
- 1large white onion, diced
- 3 clovesgarlic, minced
- 2serrano peppers, seeded and minced
- 1tomato, chopped
- 1/2 cupfresh cilantro, chopped
- to tastesalt
Crushing the beans
When the beans are fully soft, take your wooden spoon and crush a small portion of them against the side of the pot. This releases starch into the broth, thickening the liquid into a rich, cohesive stew.
The method.
Soak the beans
Cover the beans with two inches of water and let them sit overnight. Drain and rinse before starting.
Render the bacon
Place the bacon in the Dutch oven over medium heat. Cook until the fat has rendered and the pieces are crisp and dark brown.
Sauté aromatics
Add the onion to the bacon fat. Cook until the edges turn deep gold. Stir in the garlic and serranos, cooking for one minute until fragrant.
Simmer
Add the beans and enough water to cover them by two inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a very low simmer. Cover and cook for two to two and a half hours until the beans yield to pressure.
Finish
Stir in the chopped tomato and salt. Simmer uncovered for another 20 minutes. Perform the bean-crushing technique, stir in the cilantro, and serve immediately.
Other turns to take.
With Chorizo
Replace half the bacon with fresh Mexican chorizo for a deeper, spiced heat.
Smoked Meat
Add a ham hock during the initial simmer for a richer, smokier depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Keep a kettle of boiling water nearby to top off the pot if the liquid reduces too quickly.
Taste the broth for salt only at the very end, as the bacon and rendered fat contribute significantly to the seasoning.
If the beans are not softening, check if your water is overly hard; a tiny pinch of baking soda can help if the beans are stubborn.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use canned beans?
You can, but you miss out on the starch-heavy broth created by the long simmer, which is essential to the texture of this dish.
How do I store leftovers?
The flavors improve the next day. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days; they will thicken significantly, so add a splash of water when reheating.
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