Food EditionCookMexicanSideRefried Beans from Scratch
3 hr 30 minEasyServes 6
Mexican · Side

Refried Beans from Scratch

There is a massive difference between a tin of beans and the ones you make in a heavy skillet. Once you learn to pull the starch out of the beans through the frying process, you will stop reaching for the canned variety entirely.

Total time
3 hr 30 min
Hands-on
20 min
Serves
6
Difficulty
Easy
Before you start

Don't discard all the bean water

The cloudy, starchy water left behind after boiling the beans is the key to achieving the right texture during the frying stage. Keep at least two cups of it on hand.

  • Heavy-bottomed cast iron skillet
  • Potato masher
  • Large stockpot
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 1 lbdried pinto beans, rinsed and picked over
  • 1/2 cuplard or bacon fat
  • 1small white onion, finely diced
  • 2 clovesgarlic, minced
  • 1 tbspsalt, or to taste
The key technique

Fat and Emulsion

The term 'refried' is a translation of refritos, which simply means well-fried. You are not frying them twice; you are frying them until the fat and bean starch emulsify into a singular, glossy mass.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Boil the beans

    Place beans in a pot covered by two inches of water. Simmer until completely tender, about 2 to 2.5 hours. Test by pressing one against the side of the pot; it should yield with no resistance.

  2. Sauté aromatics

    Heat the lard in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, then add the garlic for 30 seconds.

  3. Incorporate beans

    Use a slotted spoon to transfer a portion of the beans into the hot lard. Add a splash of the bean cooking liquid to prevent burning.

  4. Mash and fry

    Begin mashing with the potato masher. Add more beans and more liquid as you go, maintaining a steady, low-fry sizzle. Continue until you reach your preferred texture, whether chunky or completely smooth.

  5. Season and finish

    Stir in the salt. If the mixture looks too stiff, add a final splash of liquid. The beans should pull away from the edges of the pan as you stir.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Chorizo Refried Beans

Fry 4 ounces of crumbled chorizo in the skillet before adding the onions to infuse the fat with spicy paprika and oil.

Black Bean Version

Substitute pinto beans for dried black beans, which provide a denser, more earthy result.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Always salt the beans only after they have softened; adding salt too early can toughen the skins.

Tip

If you want a smoother texture, pass the beans through a food mill before adding them to the skillet.

Tip

Do not let the beans get completely dry in the pan, or they will turn grainy as they cool.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Can I use canned beans for this?

Yes, if you are short on time. Drain and rinse two 15-ounce cans, but use a little extra fat and chicken or vegetable stock to compensate for the missing starch from the cooking water.

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