Refried Black Beans
There is a significant difference between beans that are merely mashed and those that are properly refried. You want a consistency that holds its shape on a tortilla but remains creamy enough to spread.
Don't rush the initial simmer.
The beans need to be completely soft before the smashing starts; if they are firm, the final texture will be grainy rather than smooth.
- Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven
- Potato masher
- Wooden spoon
What goes in.
- 1 lbdry black beans, rinsed and picked over
- 3 tbsplard or bacon fat
- 1white onion, finely diced
- 3 clovesgarlic, minced
- 1 tspdried epazote or oregano
- to tastekosher salt
The emulsification of fat and starch
Adding the mashed beans to hot fat in the pan creates an emulsion that transforms the texture from watery to cohesive. Keep the heat steady to drive off excess moisture without burning the sugars in the beans.
The method.
Simmer the beans
Place beans in the pot with enough water to cover by two inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cover and cook for 90 minutes to 2 hours until the skins are tender enough to burst under pressure.
Sauté aromatics
In a large skillet, melt the fat over medium heat. Add the diced onions and cook until they soften and turn translucent. Stir in the garlic and dried herbs for 60 seconds until fragrant.
Mash the beans
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked beans to the skillet, letting some of the cooking liquid come with them. Use the potato masher to break them down directly in the fat.
Reduce to texture
Continue to cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly to prevent sticking. Add small splashes of the bean cooking liquid as needed until the mixture reaches a smooth, spreadable consistency.
Other turns to take.
Spicy
Sauté one finely minced serrano or jalapeño pepper with the onions at the beginning.
Smoky
Use smoked lard or add a teaspoon of chipotle powder when you add the garlic.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Reserve all of the bean cooking liquid until the very end; you will likely need more than you think to reach the right consistency.
If you want a finer texture, pass the beans through a food mill before adding them to the frying pan.
Salt the beans only after they are soft; salting at the start can toughen the skins.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use canned beans?
Yes, but drain and rinse them well. Since they are already cooked, you skip the two-hour simmer and move straight to the frying step.
Why use lard?
Lard provides a specific mouthfeel and savory depth that vegetable oils cannot replicate, which is essential for the traditional flavor profile.
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