Making Refried Beans from Scratch
This is a study in texture. When you work with dried beans, you control the final moisture content, creating a side that holds its shape on a plate while remaining light on the palate.
Patience is your primary ingredient
Dried beans need a long, slow simmer to soften properly. If you rush the boiling, the skins will remain tough while the centers turn to mush.
- Heavy-bottomed pot
- Cast iron skillet
- Potato masher
What goes in.
- 1 lbdried pinto beans, rinsed and picked over
- 3 tbsplard or bacon fat
- 1medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 2 clovesgarlic, minced
- 1 tspkosher salt
- 2 cupsreserved bean cooking liquid
Managing the Emulsion
Add the beans to the hot fat in batches and incorporate the liquid slowly. This allows the starch to bind with the fat, turning the mixture into a creamy consistency.
The method.
Simmer the beans
Cover the beans with water by two inches in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer until they collapse when pressed between your fingers, usually 2 to 2.5 hours.
Sauté the aromatics
Heat the lard in a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until they turn translucent and soft. Stir in the garlic for one minute.
Smash and fry
Add a large scoop of cooked beans to the skillet. Use the masher to break them down. Add a splash of the bean cooking liquid and keep smashing.
Incorporate and thicken
Continue adding beans and liquid, stirring constantly. Stop when the beans are thick enough to hold their shape on a spoon but still look slightly glossy.
Other turns to take.
Chili-infused
Add a minced jalapeño or a teaspoon of dried chipotle powder to the onions during the sauté step.
Black Bean
Substitute black beans for pinto, using the same method; they will result in a denser, earthier end product.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always salt your beans only after they have softened; salt added too early can toughen the skins.
If you run out of cooking liquid, use chicken or vegetable stock to thin the mixture.
The beans will thicken as they cool, so take them off the heat while they are slightly thinner than you want.
The ones that keep coming up.
Do I have to soak the beans overnight?
It is not strictly necessary for flavor, but a soak will reduce your total simmering time by about 30 minutes.
Can I use canned beans?
You can, but you will miss out on the rich, starchy cooking liquid that is essential for a silky texture. If using canned, rinse them and use stock to compensate.
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