Working with Dried Chilies
Dried chilies are not just heat; they are dried fruit with layers of earth, smoke, and berry notes. Treat them with care, and they will become the dark, glossy heart of your cooking.
Watch the heat, avoid the burn
If you char the skin too much, the chili turns bitter; if you don't toast it at all, it stays dusty and flat. Keep a ventilated kitchen and never touch your eyes after handling them.
- Heavy cast iron skillet
- Wide-mouth bowl
- High-speed blender
- Fine-mesh sieve
What goes in.
- 4 ozDried chilies (Ancho, Guajillo, or Pasilla), stems and seeds removed
- 2 cupsHot water or beef/vegetable stock
- 1/2 tspSalt
- 2 clovesGarlic, peeled
Toast by aroma, not by time
Lay the chilies flat in a dry skillet over medium heat. Press them down for 10-15 seconds per side until they become pliable and the smell fills the room; pull them off the moment they release their aroma to prevent acrid smoke.
The method.
Prep the chilies
Use kitchen shears to snip off the stems and shake out the bulk of the seeds. Leave a few seeds if you prefer a sharper heat.
Toast
Place in a hot, dry skillet. Move them constantly until the color deepens slightly and they smell like fresh coffee or dark cocoa.
Rehydrate
Submerge the toasted chilies in a bowl of near-boiling water or stock. Place a plate on top to keep them submerged for 15-20 minutes until they feel soft and leathery.
Blend
Transfer chilies to a blender with the garlic and a splash of the soaking liquid. Blend until the texture is velvet-smooth.
Strain
Pass the paste through a fine-mesh sieve to catch any stubborn pieces of skin, then discard the solids.
Other turns to take.
Deep Smoke
Toast a handful of dried chipotle chilies alongside your base for an intense, wood-fired flavor profile.
Bright Acid
Add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to the blender for a sharper finish that cuts through fatty meats.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never use boiling water to soak them, or they may turn metallic; off-the-boil is best.
If your blender is struggling, add more soaking liquid; you can always reduce the sauce in a pan later.
Freeze leftover paste in ice cube trays for easy additions to soups or braises.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if the chilies are too old to use?
If they crumble into dust when you touch them, they have lost their oils and will likely taste like cardboard.
Can I leave the seeds in?
Yes, but they add bitterness and texture that detracts from the smooth consistency of the final sauce.
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