Spinach Gomae
This is a study in texture and restraint. When done correctly, the spinach holds a slight bite, acting as a clean canvas for the earthy, nutty intensity of the freshly ground sesame seeds.
Don't rush the wringing process.
If the spinach stays wet, the sauce will lose its grip and pool at the bottom of the bowl. Be thorough with your squeeze.
- Suribachi or mortar and pestle
- Large mixing bowl
- Tongs
- Fine mesh strainer
What goes in.
- 1 lbfresh spinach, washed thoroughly
- 3 tbspwhite sesame seeds
- 1 tbspsoy sauce
- 1 tspsugar
- 1 tspmirin
Release the oils
Grind the sesame seeds until they turn into a coarse, oily paste before adding the liquids. This ensures the sauce clings to the greens rather than washing off.
The method.
Toast the seeds
Place the sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat. Shake the pan constantly until they become fragrant and turn a light golden color, about 3 minutes.
Grind
Transfer seeds to a mortar and pestle. Grind until about three-quarters of the seeds are broken down into a paste. Stir in the soy sauce, sugar, and mirin.
Blanch
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop the spinach in for exactly 30 seconds. It should wilt but retain a vibrant, deep green hue.
Shock and squeeze
Drain the spinach immediately and plunge into a bowl of ice water. Once cool, gather the spinach into a ball and squeeze firmly with both hands until no more water releases.
Toss
Loosen the spinach ball into bite-sized segments and add to the bowl with the sesame paste. Toss gently with tongs until every leaf is coated.
Other turns to take.
Miso-Gomae
Whisk a teaspoon of light miso into the sesame paste for an added layer of depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use spinach with thin stems if possible, as they have a cleaner texture.
Do not let the spinach boil for more than 30 seconds or it will turn mushy.
Make the sauce just before serving so the sesame seeds stay crisp and aromatic.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use black sesame seeds?
Yes, but they have a slightly earthier, more bitter profile than white seeds.
My sauce is too thick. What should I do?
Add a few drops of water or more mirin until it reaches a spreadable consistency.
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