Food EditionCookJapaneseSideMaking Proper Sushi Rice
50 minIntermediateServes 4
Japanese · Side

Making Proper Sushi Rice

The quality of your sushi depends entirely on the rice, not the fish. Proper sushi rice should have a subtle sheen and hold together without turning into a heavy, starchy paste.

Total time
50 min
Hands-on
20 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Patience with the wash is non-negotiable.

If you skip the rinsing step, the excess surface starch will cause the rice to clump into a thick, unpleasant porridge.

  • Fine-mesh sieve
  • Heavy-bottomed pot with a tight lid
  • Wide wooden or plastic bowl (hangiri preferred)
  • Flat wooden spatula (shamoji)
  • Fan
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 2 cupsshort-grain Japanese rice
  • 2 cupswater (plus extra for rinsing)
  • 1 piecekombu (dried kelp), about 2 inches
  • 1/4 cuprice vinegar
  • 2 tbspsugar
  • 1 tspsea salt
The key technique

Folding, not stirring

When adding the vinegar mixture, use the edge of your spatula to cut through the rice at a 45-degree angle. Never mash or crush the grains; you want to coat them without breaking their structure.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Rinse the rice

    Place rice in a bowl and cover with cold water. Swirl with your hand, drain, and repeat until the water is completely clear, usually 4 to 5 rinses.

  2. Drain and soak

    Let the rice drain in a sieve for 15 minutes, then transfer to the pot with the 2 cups of fresh water and the piece of kombu. Let it sit for 20 minutes before turning on the heat.

  3. Cook

    Remove the kombu. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat, then immediately reduce to the lowest setting, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it steam, covered, for another 10 minutes.

  4. Season

    Dissolve the sugar and salt into the vinegar. Spread the hot rice into your wide bowl. Pour the vinegar mixture over the rice, using the cutting motion to fold it in.

  5. Cool and fan

    While folding, have someone fan the rice vigorously. This removes excess moisture and gives the rice its characteristic glossy finish.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Brown Rice Sushi

Replace white rice with short-grain brown rice; note that you will need to increase the water ratio and soaking time significantly as the bran layer is tougher.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Always use a wooden bowl if possible; it absorbs excess moisture from the vinegar mixture and prevents the rice from getting soggy.

Tip

Keep a bowl of water mixed with a splash of vinegar nearby to dip your fingers in when handling the finished rice to prevent sticking.

Tip

Use the rice at body temperature. Cold rice from the refrigerator loses its texture and will not hold properly.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Can I use standard long-grain rice?

No. Short-grain rice has the specific starch content needed to provide the stickiness required for sushi. Long-grain rice will be too dry and will not hold its shape.

Why did my rice turn into mush?

Usually, this is due to adding too much water or not washing the starch off thoroughly enough before cooking.

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