Making Proper Dashi
This is a clean, elemental broth. It relies on the interplay between the mineral punch of sun-dried kelp and the smoke-cured depth of skipjack tuna.
Temperature is everything.
If you boil the kombu, the broth turns cloudy and develops an unwanted slimy texture. Keep your heat low and watch for the first signs of movement in the water.
- medium saucepan
- fine-mesh strainer
- cheesecloth or coffee filter
What goes in.
- 4 cupswater
- 1 piece (4-inch)dried kombu (kelp)
- 1 cupkatsuobushi (bonito flakes)
Extraction by Osmosis
Letting the kombu soak in cold water before turning on the heat allows the glutamates to release gradually, resulting in a cleaner flavor than a quick boil.
The method.
Soak the kombu
Place the water and kombu in your saucepan. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes, or up to 3 hours if you have the time.
Heat slowly
Place the pan over medium-low heat. Watch the water closely; as soon as you see small bubbles forming at the base of the kelp, remove the kombu with tongs.
Add the flakes
Bring the water to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat entirely. Add the katsuobushi.
The plunge
Let the flakes sink to the bottom on their own. This takes about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not stir, as this agitates the broth and makes it cloudy.
Strain
Pour the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter or cheesecloth into a bowl. Press the flakes gently only if you want a bolder, sharper broth.
Other turns to take.
Kombu Dashi
Omit the bonito flakes entirely for a vegan base; double the amount of kombu and steep for 6 hours in the refrigerator.
Niban Dashi
Take the spent kombu and bonito flakes, add 2 cups of fresh water, and simmer for 10 minutes to create a lighter second-run broth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Wipe the kombu with a damp cloth if there is a white powdery substance on the surface—that is mannitol, which provides much of the flavor.
Store dashi in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze it in ice cube trays for easy use in future soups.
The quality of your water matters; filtered water produces a much cleaner taste than tap water with high mineral content.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I reuse the bonito flakes?
Yes, you can use the spent flakes to make a second, weaker broth, or stir them into soy sauce and mirin to make furikake.
Why is my broth cloudy?
You likely let the water reach a rolling boil or you stirred the broth while the flakes were steeping.
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