Making Proper Dashi
You are not boiling a soup; you are steeping aromatics. The difference between a harsh, fishy broth and a clear, elegant dashi lies in the temperature of the water.
Watch the temperature
The secret is to never let the water reach a rolling boil once the ingredients are added. Keep your heat low and your eyes on the surface of the pot.
- medium saucepan
- fine mesh strainer
- cheesecloth or coffee filter
What goes in.
- 4 cupscold filtered water
- 4 inch squarekombu (dried kelp)
- 1.5 cupskatsuobushi (shaved bonito flakes)
The Bubble Threshold
Remove the kombu just as the water begins to shimmer with tiny bubbles. Once you add the bonito flakes, kill the heat immediately to avoid extracting bitterness.
The method.
Soak the kelp
Place the kombu in the cold water in your saucepan. Let it sit for at least 20 minutes, or up to an hour if you have the time, to rehydrate.
Heat the kombu
Set the pan over medium heat. Watch closely for small bubbles forming around the edges of the pot. Lift the kombu out the moment you see these bubbles.
Infuse the bonito
Bring the water to a brief, soft simmer then turn off the heat. Add the katsuobushi flakes all at once. Let them sink to the bottom naturally, which takes about 2 to 3 minutes.
Strain
Line your strainer with cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Pour the liquid through gently. Do not press on the flakes, or you will cloud the broth.
Other turns to take.
Kombu Dashi
Skip the bonito flakes entirely for a vegan base; soak the kelp overnight in cold water in the refrigerator.
Second Dashi
Reuse the kelp and flakes by simmering them in 2 cups of fresh water for 10 minutes to extract a stronger, earthier base for miso soup.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Wipe the kombu with a dry cloth to remove grit, but do not wash off the white powdery substance; that is where the concentrated flavor lives.
Keep the leftover used flakes and kelp; they can be simmered with soy sauce and sugar to make a topping for rice.
Store the finished dashi in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to three days, or freeze it in ice cube trays.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why does my dashi taste bitter?
You likely let the water reach a rolling boil or left the bonito flakes in the water for too long.
Can I use powdered dashi?
You can, but it will lack the clarity and nuanced depth of a fresh stock. Use the powder for a quick weeknight meal, but make the real version when the broth is the star of the dish.
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