Sautéed Bitter Greens
Sautéed bitter greens rely on aggressive heat and a balance of salt and fat to tame their natural bite. You wilt them rapidly in a wide pan so they remain bright and vibrant rather than turning into a sodden mass.
Manage the moisture
The secret to well-cooked greens is washing them thoroughly and shaking them dry; excess water will steam the greens rather than sautéing them, leaving you with mush.
- large wide skillet or wok
- tongs
- chef's knife
What goes in.
- 1.5 lbbitter greens (escarole, broccoli rabe, or kale), stems trimmed and leaves roughly chopped
- 3 tbspextra virgin olive oil
- 3 clovesgarlic, thinly sliced
- 1/2 tspred pepper flakes
- to tastekosher salt
- 1lemon, halved
Hard Sear and Rapid Wilt
Use the highest heat your stove allows for the first thirty seconds to drive off surface moisture, ensuring the greens fry in the oil rather than stewing in their own liquids.
The method.
Heat the oil
Place your skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Once the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic and red pepper flakes.
Infuse the fat
Sauté the garlic for about 45 seconds until it is fragrant and barely turns pale gold. Do not let it brown or it will turn bitter.
Wilt the greens
Add the greens to the pan in batches if necessary, using tongs to turn them constantly. Keep the heat high.
Finish the cook
Once the greens have collapsed and turned deep green, season with salt. Squeeze the lemon half over the pan, toss once more, and remove from heat immediately.
Other turns to take.
Anchovy infusion
Add two oil-packed anchovy fillets to the oil with the garlic, melting them down until they dissolve before adding the greens.
Toasted finish
Toss in a handful of toasted pine nuts or golden raisins right before serving to provide texture and contrast to the bitterness.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If using hearty greens like kale, remove the thick center ribs before chopping to ensure even cooking.
If the pan seems dry, add a teaspoon of water at the very end to create a quick pan sauce with the lemon juice and oil.
Taste a leaf before seasoning; some greens are naturally saltier than others.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know when the greens are done?
They are ready when the leaves are wilted and tender to the bite, but the stems still have a slight, pleasant resistance.
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