Pesto Genovese
Making pesto by hand is a rhythmic practice that respects the delicate structure of the basil leaf. By bruising the leaves against the stone, you release the oils slowly, resulting in a cohesive sauce that coats pasta rather than sitting on top of it.
Temperature is the enemy of basil.
Ensure your mortar is cool to the touch. If you have been washing it in hot water, let it sit until it returns to room temperature before beginning.
- Marble mortar and wooden pestle
- Large wooden spoon
- Fine grater
What goes in.
- 50 gfresh basil leaves, small and bright green
- 15 gpine nuts
- 1 smallgarlic clove, peeled
- 30 gParmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
- 20 gPecorino Sardo, finely grated
- 60 mlextra virgin olive oil, grassy and cold-pressed
- pinchcoarse sea salt
Circular Grinding
Do not pound the ingredients like a hammer. Use a firm, circular grinding motion against the sides of the mortar to crush the cells rather than shredding them.
The method.
Crush the garlic and salt
Place the garlic and a few grains of coarse salt in the mortar. Grind until the garlic breaks down into a creamy, smooth paste.
Incorporate the pine nuts
Add the pine nuts to the garlic paste. Continue grinding until the nuts lose their shape and combine into a dense, oily mass.
Add the basil
Add the basil leaves in batches. Use the pestle to crush the leaves against the walls of the mortar until they darken and release a vibrant green liquid.
Add the cheeses
Fold in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Sardo. Mix with the pestle until the cheese is fully integrated.
Emulsify with oil
Slowly pour in the olive oil while stirring with the pestle. Stop when the texture is thick, creamy, and holds its shape on the spoon.
Other turns to take.
Traditional Pasta Pairing
Toss with trofie or trenette pasta, adding two tablespoons of the starchy pasta cooking water to loosen the sauce just before serving.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Wipe the basil leaves with a damp cloth instead of soaking them to keep them dry and vibrant.
The coarse salt acts as an abrasive; do not skip it during the garlic-crushing step.
If you must store the pesto, cover the surface with a thin layer of olive oil to prevent the basil from turning brown.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a food processor?
You can, but the heat from the metal blades often oxidizes the basil, turning it brown and altering the flavor. If you must use one, chill the blade and bowl in the freezer for 30 minutes first.
What if I cannot find Pecorino Sardo?
Use a dry, aged Pecorino Romano, though be cautious with the salt as Romano is significantly sharper and saltier than Sardo.
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