Pasta alla Gricia
This is the ancestor of Carbonara and Amatriciana, stripped back to its purest components. It demands attention to timing, as the emulsion happens in the final minute of cooking.
Control the heat to save the emulsion.
Pecorino Romano seizes if added to boiling pasta, creating rubbery clumps instead of a smooth sauce. Always take the pan off the burner before adding the cheese.
- large heavy-bottomed skillet
- pasta pot
- tongs
- microplane or fine grater
What goes in.
- 200gRigatoni or Spaghetti
- 100gGuanciale, cut into 1/4 inch batons
- 70gPecorino Romano, finely grated
- to tasteCoarsely ground black pepper
The Mantecatura
By tossing the pasta with rendered fat and a ladle of cloudy, starchy water off the heat, you force the components to bind. Add the cheese last to finish the suspension.
The method.
Render the guanciale
Place the guanciale in a cold skillet over medium-low heat. Let it fry slowly until the fat is transparent and the meat edges are crisp and amber.
Boil the pasta
Drop the pasta into boiling water salted significantly less than usual—the cheese and pork are already quite saline.
Reserve the water
When the pasta is two minutes shy of al dente, pull it directly into the skillet with the guanciale using tongs. Keep a mug of the starchy cooking water nearby.
Develop the sauce
Add a small ladle of pasta water to the skillet. Increase heat to medium and toss vigorously until the liquid reduces into a creamy, opaque sheen.
Finish with cheese
Remove the pan from the heat entirely. Sprinkle in the grated Pecorino and extra black pepper. Toss repeatedly until the cheese melts into the starchy water, coating the pasta completely.
Other turns to take.
Crispy finish
Remove half of the fried guanciale bits from the pan before adding the pasta, then garnish the plated dish with them for added crunch.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Do not use oil; the guanciale renders enough fat to coat the pasta entirely.
If the sauce looks too tight or dry, add another splash of pasta water and keep tossing.
Grind your black pepper fresh to ensure the sharpness cuts through the rich pork fat.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I substitute pancetta?
Pancetta works, but it lacks the depth and specific fat content of guanciale. If using pancetta, you may need a teaspoon of olive oil to get the rendering process started.
Why did my sauce turn into a cheese clump?
The pan was likely too hot when you added the Pecorino. Always move the pan to a cool burner before incorporating the cheese.
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