Food EditionCookItalianDinnerHandmade Semolina Pasta
1 hr 30 minIntermediateServes 4
Italian · Dinner

Handmade Semolina Pasta

This is pasta without eggs, born from the tradition of the southern Italian table. It is functional, durable, and deeply satisfying to work with because the dough holds its shape exactly where your thumb leaves a mark.

Total time
1 hr 30 min
Hands-on
45 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Patience is your primary ingredient.

The hydration level is low by design. If the dough feels like dry gravel at first, keep pressing; the moisture will eventually distribute through the semolina.

  • wooden work surface
  • bench scraper
  • damp kitchen towel
  • mixing bowl
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 400gsemolina rimacinata (finely milled durum wheat flour)
  • 200mlwarm water (roughly 110F)
  • 1 pinchfine sea salt
The key technique

Developing the structure

Use the heel of your hand to push the dough away from you, then fold it back over itself. Repeat this for at least ten minutes until the surface transitions from sandy to smooth like skin.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Mix the flour and water

    Create a well in the center of your flour mound. Pour in half the water and use a fork to draw flour in from the edges. Add the remaining water slowly until a shaggy, uneven mass forms.

  2. Knead until smooth

    Work the dough on an un-floured wooden surface. If it sticks, use the bench scraper to lift it. When it becomes smooth and resists your finger when pressed, it is ready.

  3. Rest the dough

    Wrap the dough in a damp towel and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. This is non-negotiable; without the rest, the dough will snap back as you try to roll it.

  4. Shape

    Cut off a small portion and roll it into a rope about half an inch thick. Cut into small pieces and use your thumb to drag them across the board into orecchiette shapes or roll them into cavatelli.

  5. Cook

    Drop the pasta into heavily salted boiling water. They are done when they float to the surface and maintain a firm, chewy texture, usually within 3 to 5 minutes.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Herbed Pasta

Finely mince flat-leaf parsley or basil and work it into the dough during the final stages of kneading for flecks of color.

Squid Ink

Dissolve one teaspoon of squid ink into your warm water before mixing to create a striking black pasta.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Use a wooden board rather than granite or metal; the texture of the wood helps grip the dough, which aids in forming the shapes.

Tip

If your shapes are not holding their curve, your dough may be too dry. Wet your hands slightly and continue kneading.

Tip

Do not rinse the pasta after boiling; the starch on the surface helps the sauce adhere to the noodles.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Can I use standard all-purpose flour?

You can, but it will lack the signature chew of semolina. If you must substitute, use a mix of half all-purpose and half high-protein bread flour.

How do I store the pasta if I'm not cooking it immediately?

Lay the shaped pasta on a tray dusted with semolina in a single layer. Let them air dry for an hour, then transfer to a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

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