Food EditionCookFrenchSnackClassic Gruyère Gougères
45 minIntermediateServes 24
French · Snack

Classic Gruyère Gougères

These puffs rely on steam for their structure. Get the base right, and you have a reliable vessel for any hard, sharp cheese you prefer.

Total time
45 min
Hands-on
20 min
Serves
24
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Watch the moisture

The dough must be thick enough to hold its shape on the tray; if it looks runny before you add the last egg, stop adding it.

  • heavy-bottomed saucepan
  • wooden spoon
  • baking sheet
  • parchment paper
  • piping bag
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 1 cupwater
  • 8 tbspunsalted butter, cut into small cubes
  • 1/2 tspkosher salt
  • 1 cupall-purpose flour
  • 4 largeeggs, room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cupsGruyère cheese, finely grated
  • 1/4 tspfreshly cracked black pepper
The key technique

Drying the dough

After stirring the flour into the boiling liquid, keep it over medium heat for two minutes. You are looking for a thin film to coat the bottom of the pan and for the ball of dough to stop sticking to the sides.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Heat the base

    Bring the water, butter, and salt to a rolling boil in your saucepan. The butter must be fully melted.

  2. Incorporate flour

    Dump the flour in all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a smooth ball forms.

  3. Dry the dough

    Cook the dough ball over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly to drive off excess moisture.

  4. Add eggs

    Transfer to a bowl. Beat in eggs one by one. Do not add the next until the first is fully incorporated. The final texture should be shiny and drop slowly from the spoon.

  5. Fold and pipe

    Fold in the cheese and pepper. Pipe mounds the size of a walnut onto your prepared baking sheet.

  6. Bake

    Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 20 minutes. Do not open the door. Turn heat down to 350°F (175°C) and bake for another 5-10 minutes until deeply golden.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Herbed

Add one tablespoon of finely minced fresh thyme or chives to the dough along with the cheese.

Spiced

Add a pinch of cayenne or nutmeg during the flour-incorporation stage.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Use a fine grater for the cheese so it distributes evenly through the dough without weighing it down.

Tip

If the dough looks like it might slide off the sheet, it is too wet; skip the final bit of the fourth egg.

Tip

Serve them immediately while warm; if they soften after cooling, put them back in a 350°F oven for five minutes to crisp.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Why did my puffs collapse?

Usually, this happens because the oven door was opened too early, releasing the steam before the structure set, or because the dough wasn't dried enough on the stove.

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