Sautéing Wild Mushrooms
Wild mushrooms like chanterelles, hen-of-the-woods, or maitake possess a density and earthiness that deserve more than a quick toss in butter. Treat them as a primary ingredient rather than an afterthought, and they will anchor a meal with their depth.
Manage your moisture
Mushrooms are mostly water, and crowding the pan is the fastest way to steam them into mush instead of searing them. Use a pan large enough to hold them in a single, unstacked layer.
- large cast iron or stainless steel skillet
- wide spatula
- dry pastry brush
What goes in.
- 1 lbwild mushrooms, cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces
- 2 tbspunsalted butter
- 1 tbspneutral oil, such as grapeseed or avocado
- 2 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 1 sprigfresh thyme
- to tasteflaky sea salt
Evaporation precedes color
Start with a dry pan or just a thin film of oil. Let the mushrooms release their own liquid; once that liquid evaporates completely, the mushrooms will begin to crisp in the fat.
The method.
Prep the mushrooms
Clean the mushrooms using a brush or a damp cloth. Avoid soaking them in water, as they act like sponges and will never brown if saturated.
Initial sear
Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and spread the mushrooms in a single layer. Do not add salt yet.
Let them sit
Leave the mushrooms untouched for 4 to 5 minutes. You are waiting for the underside to develop a deep, mahogany crust.
Add fat and aromatics
Once browned, toss the mushrooms and add the butter, garlic, and thyme. The butter will foam and brown alongside the mushrooms.
Finish
Sauté for another 2 minutes until the butter smells toasted and nutty. Remove from the heat immediately, discard the garlic and thyme sprig, and season with salt.
Other turns to take.
Deglazed finish
After the butter browns, splash a teaspoon of dry sherry or soy sauce into the pan to pick up the browned bits, known as fond, from the bottom.
Cream-finished
Add a tablespoon of heavy cream at the very end to bind the butter into a silky emulsion that coats the mushrooms.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Salt draws out moisture, so season only at the very end of cooking to ensure the mushrooms crisp rather than stew.
If using dense varieties like king trumpet, slice them thinner to match the cooking time of more delicate varieties.
Use a cast iron pan for superior heat retention, which helps achieve that crust faster.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why are my mushrooms rubbery?
The pan was likely too crowded or the heat too low. If the mushrooms don't have enough surface area to release their steam, they will soften in their own moisture instead of searing.
Can I use olive oil?
High heat can break down extra virgin olive oil and alter its flavor. Use a neutral oil for the sear, and save the olive oil to drizzle over the dish after plating.
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