Sautéed Wild Mushrooms
Treat wild mushrooms with patience. When you crowd the pan or rush the sear, you lose the texture that makes them worth the effort.
Dry heat is your best tool.
Avoid washing mushrooms under running water; use a soft brush or a dry cloth to remove dirt. If you must use water, wipe them clean and dry them completely before they touch the pan.
- large stainless steel or cast iron skillet
- tongs
- paper towels
What goes in.
- 1 lbassorted wild mushrooms (chanterelles, oyster, maitake), torn into bite-sized pieces
- 3 tbspunsalted butter
- 1 tbspneutral high-smoke point oil
- 2 clovesgarlic, smashed and minced
- 1 tbspfresh thyme leaves
- to tastekosher salt and cracked black pepper
Mastering the evaporation phase
Place the mushrooms in a hot, dry pan first. Only once the mushrooms have released their water and the pan is dry should you add the fat to initiate browning.
The method.
Prepare the mushrooms
Clean the mushrooms thoroughly with a dry brush. Tear larger pieces by hand to create ragged edges, which will crisp up better than knife-cut surfaces.
The dry sear
Heat your skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer. Do not stir for three minutes. Let them release their moisture until the pan is visibly dry.
Add fat
Once the pan is dry, add the oil and butter. Toss to coat the mushrooms. Continue cooking until the edges turn a deep, golden brown.
Finish with aromatics
Lower the heat to medium. Add the garlic and thyme. Stir constantly for 60 seconds until the garlic is fragrant but not browned. Season with salt and pepper just before serving.
Other turns to take.
Deglazed finish
Pour two tablespoons of dry sherry or balsamic vinegar into the hot pan after adding the garlic, scraping the bottom to release the browned bits.
Creamed mushrooms
Stir in a splash of heavy cream at the very end and reduce until it coats the back of a spoon.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a wide enough pan so the mushrooms aren't piled on top of each other; overcrowding leads to steaming.
If using a variety of mushroom sizes, add the larger, denser pieces to the pan a minute before the smaller ones.
Salt draws out water, which is why you must wait until the end to salt the dish.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my mushrooms turn rubbery?
The pan wasn't hot enough, or you added salt or fat too early. Both actions draw liquid out too quickly, preventing the crust from forming.
Can I use button mushrooms instead?
Yes, but they hold more water than wild varieties. You will need to keep them in the dry pan for longer to ensure all the liquid evaporates.
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