Mastering Emulsions
Emulsions are the difference between a pool of separated oil and a coating sauce that clings to a leaf of lettuce. Once you learn to control the pace of the pour, you can build everything from thin vinaigrettes to rich, stable mayonnaises.
Patience is your primary ingredient.
If you pour the oil too quickly, the droplets become too large to stay suspended and the sauce will break. Keep your ingredients at room temperature to ensure they bond easily.
- Heavy-bottomed mixing bowl
- Balloon whisk
- Damp kitchen towel
- Measuring cup with a spout
What goes in.
- 1 largeegg yolk, room temperature
- 1 tbspDijon mustard
- 1 cupneutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
- 1 tbsplemon juice or white wine vinegar
- 1 pinchfine sea salt
Establishing the base bond
The first quarter-cup of oil is the most critical. You must incorporate it drop by drop until the mixture begins to resemble a thick paste; only after that base is established can you increase the speed of your pour.
The method.
Secure the bowl
Place a damp kitchen towel under your mixing bowl to keep it steady while you whisk.
Combine the base
Whisk the egg yolk, mustard, and salt in the bowl until the yolk lightens in color.
Begin the drop-by-drop
Add the oil literally one drop at a time, whisking constantly. Do not add the next drop until the previous one has fully disappeared into the yolk.
Increase the flow
Once the mixture thickens and looks like heavy cream, you can pour the oil in a very thin, slow stream. Keep the whisk moving in a steady, rhythmic motion.
Adjust the texture
Whisk in the lemon juice or vinegar at the end to thin the emulsion to your desired consistency.
Other turns to take.
Vinaigrette
Omit the egg yolk and whisk 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar or citrus juice vigorously before serving.
Compound Butter
Slowly beat room-temperature softened butter into a small amount of liquid, like wine or fruit juice reduction, until fully incorporated.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If your emulsion breaks—meaning it looks oily or curdled—stop pouring. Place a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and slowly whisk the broken sauce into the new yolk as if it were the oil.
A food processor can do the whisking for you, but keep the motor running on low and add the oil through the feed tube in a controlled stream.
Warm ingredients emulsify faster than cold ones.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if the emulsion is stable?
It is stable if you can draw a line through it with a spoon and the sides of the path hold their shape rather than flowing back together.
Can I use olive oil?
Yes, but use a light olive oil. Extra virgin olive oil can turn bitter when whipped at high speeds.
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