Making Classic Veal Demi-Glace
This is a project of time and patience. You are concentrating the collagen and essence of veal bones into a liquid so rich that it turns solid in the refrigerator.
Commit the time to roasting.
The deep, dark color and complex aroma come entirely from the deep caramelization of the bones and aromatics. If you pull the bones from the oven too early, the final result will be thin and one-dimensional.
- large heavy-bottomed roasting pan
- 10-quart stockpot
- fine-mesh chinois or cheesecloth
- wide, shallow sauté pan for finishing
What goes in.
- 5 lbveal marrow and knuckle bones
- 1 cupmirepoix (carrots, celery, onions, diced small)
- 2 tbsptomato paste
- 4 qtcold water
- 2 cupsbrown veal stock (prepared)
- 2 cupsespagnole sauce
- 2bay leaves
- 4black peppercorns
Knowing when to stop
Dip a metal spoon into the reduction. If the liquid clings to the back of the spoon and you can draw a clean line through it with your finger without the liquid running, it is finished.
The method.
Roast the bones
Arrange bones in a single layer in a roasting pan. Roast at 425°F (220°C) for 60-90 minutes, turning halfway until they are deep brown, almost dark mahogany.
Caramelize aromatics
Add the mirepoix to the pan during the last 20 minutes of roasting. Once browned, stir in the tomato paste and roast for another 5 minutes to cook out the raw acidity.
Simmer the stock
Transfer bones and aromatics to the stockpot. Deglaze the roasting pan with a splash of water, scraping up every dark bit, and add to the pot. Cover with 4 quarts of cold water.
Extract
Bring to a bare simmer—do not boil, or the stock will turn cloudy. Skim the foam from the surface constantly for the first hour. Simmer gently for 8 hours.
Reduce
Strain the stock through a fine mesh. Combine the strained stock with the espagnole sauce in a clean saucepan. Reduce over medium-low heat until the volume is halved and the texture is syrupy.
Other turns to take.
Glacé de Viande
Reduce the stock further without the addition of espagnole sauce until it reaches a thick, gelatinous state.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always start with cold water; it extracts more collagen and impurities than hot water.
If the stock boils, the fats emulsify into the liquid, making it impossible to clarify later.
Store in ice cube trays to have single-serving portions ready for finishing pan sauces.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use beef bones instead of veal?
You can, but veal provides more collagen, which is essential for the gelatinous mouthfeel characteristic of a true demi-glace.
Why is my demi-glace bitter?
The tomato paste may have burned during the roasting process, or the bones were roasted too aggressively.
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