Making Proper Veal Stock
You cannot rush this process. True veal stock relies on the slow breakdown of connective tissue, requiring patience and a large, heavy pot to maintain a steady, gentle bubble.
The bones dictate the quality.
Use a mix of meaty neck bones and knuckle bones for the best ratio of meat to cartilage. Do not overcrowd your roasting pan, or the bones will steam instead of brown.
- Large heavy-bottomed stockpot
- Large roasting pan
- Fine-mesh sieve
- Cheesecloth
What goes in.
- 5 lbveal bones, cut into 3-inch pieces
- 2 largeyellow onions, unpeeled and halved
- 3carrots, roughly chopped
- 3 stalkscelery, roughly chopped
- 2 tbsptomato paste
- 1 headgarlic, halved horizontally
- 1 bunchfresh thyme, parsley stems, and 2 bay leaves
- 1 galloncold water
Achieving Deep Color
Roasting the bones at 425°F (220°C) until they are dark brown is the single most important step for flavor and color. If the bones aren't dark, the stock will remain pale and thin.
The method.
Roast the bones
Arrange bones in a single layer in the roasting pan. Bake for 45 minutes, turning once, until deeply browned.
Add aromatics
Scatter onions, carrots, and celery around the bones. Roast for another 20 minutes until the vegetables are charred.
Deglaze and transfer
Transfer bones and vegetables to your stockpot. Place the roasting pan on the stove over medium heat, add a cup of water, and scrape up every dark, crusty bit from the bottom. Pour this into the stockpot.
Simmer
Add cold water to cover by two inches. Bring to a bare simmer—do not let it reach a rolling boil, or the stock will turn cloudy. Add tomato paste and herbs.
Skim
Every 30 minutes for the first two hours, skim the gray foam and fat that rises to the surface.
Strain
After 8 hours, strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth. Discard solids.
Other turns to take.
Brown Veal Jus
Reduce the strained stock by half over medium heat until it becomes syrupy and intense.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always start with cold water; it draws out more impurities and flavor than hot water.
Do not salt your stock while it simmers; wait until you are using it in a final dish to control the seasoning.
Cool the stock quickly by placing the pot in an ice bath before moving it to the refrigerator.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why is my stock cloudy?
You likely let it boil too aggressively. A gentle, lazy bubble is all you need to extract the collagen without emulsifying the fats.
Can I reuse the bones?
The second extraction will be very weak. For a rich, gelatinous base, use fresh bones every time.