Pesto Genovese
Making this sauce by hand in a mortar and pestle is the only way to achieve the correct emulsion. The friction of the stone against the ingredients draws out the essential oils of the basil without shearing them, keeping the color bright and the flavor sharp.
Freshness is the only shortcut that works.
Basil bruises easily; avoid working the leaves too aggressively or they will turn dark and bitter.
- large marble mortar and wooden pestle
- chef's knife
- rubber spatula
What goes in.
- 2 cupsfresh Genovese basil leaves, washed and dried thoroughly
- 1/3 cuppine nuts, lightly toasted
- 2 clovesgarlic, peeled
- 1/2 cupParmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
- 1/4 cupPecorino Sardo, freshly grated
- 1/2 cupextra virgin olive oil, preferably Ligurian
- 1 pinchcoarse sea salt
Crushing, not chopping
Use a steady, circular motion with the pestle to crush the ingredients against the sides of the mortar. Do not strike the ingredients like a hammer, as this bruises the basil rather than breaking down its cell walls.
The method.
Crush the aromatics
Place the garlic cloves and a pinch of coarse sea salt in the mortar. Work them into a smooth, white paste. Add the pine nuts and continue grinding until they are fully incorporated into the garlic.
Add the basil
Add the basil leaves in small handfuls. Use a circular grinding motion, pressing the leaves against the sides of the mortar until they release a dark green liquid.
Incorporate cheese
Add the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Sardo. Work them into the paste until the mixture is thick and uniform.
Emulsify with oil
Drizzle the olive oil in a thin stream while continuing to stir steadily with the pestle. Stop when the texture is creamy and the oil is fully integrated into the paste.
Other turns to take.
Pasta Trofie
The traditional serving choice; the twists of the pasta catch the thick sauce better than flat noodles.
Potato and Bean
Add diced potatoes and green beans to the boiling pasta water for the final few minutes of cooking to serve with the pesto.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Dry the basil completely after washing; any water left on the leaves will dilute the sauce and prevent the oil from emulsifying properly.
If you must use a food processor, chill the blade and bowl in the freezer for 30 minutes first to prevent the friction heat from cooking the basil.
Add a tablespoon of warm pasta cooking water to the pesto just before tossing it with the noodles to help it coat every strand.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use walnuts instead of pine nuts?
You can, though it changes the flavor profile significantly. Pine nuts offer a creamy, neutral background that highlights the basil; walnuts provide a more aggressive, tannic flavor.
How long will this stay green in the fridge?
Only for a day or two. If you have extra, press a thin layer of olive oil directly onto the surface of the pesto to prevent oxidation and keep it bright.
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