Making Classic Espagnole Sauce
This is a heavy, robust sauce that serves as the base for demi-glace and countless pan sauces. It rewards the cook who isn't afraid to let the roux darken almost to the edge of burning.
Don't rush the color
The depth of the sauce comes entirely from the color of your roux. If you pull it off the heat too soon, the sauce will be thin and lack character.
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- whisk
- fine-mesh sieve
- ladle
What goes in.
- 4 tbspunsalted butter
- 1/4 cupall-purpose flour
- 1/2 cupyellow onion, diced
- 1/4 cupcarrot, diced
- 1/4 cupcelery, diced
- 2 tbsptomato paste
- 4 cupsbrown veal stock
- 1bay leaf
- 1 sprigfresh thyme
The Hazelnut Stage
Whisk the flour into the melted butter over medium heat. Keep it moving until the mixture turns from pale yellow to the color of toasted hazelnuts and smells nutty.
The method.
Make the roux
Melt butter in your saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the roux turns a deep medium-brown. Do not walk away.
Add aromatics
Add the diced onion, carrot, and celery to the roux. Cook until the vegetables soften and take on a little color, about 5 to 7 minutes.
Incorporate tomato
Stir in the tomato paste. Cook for 2 minutes to lose the raw metallic edge of the paste; it should darken slightly.
Add the stock
Whisk in the veal stock slowly, one ladle at a time, ensuring the liquid is fully incorporated into the roux before adding more to prevent lumps.
Simmer
Add the bay leaf and thyme. Turn the heat to low and let it simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours, skimming the foam and fat that rises to the surface every 20 minutes.
Strain
Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the vegetables to extract all the liquid. Discard the solids.
Other turns to take.
Demi-Glace
Reduce equal parts Espagnole and brown veal stock by half until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
Bordelaise
Finish the finished Espagnole with a reduction of red wine, shallots, and herbs.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a high-quality, gelatinous veal stock if possible; it provides the body the sauce needs to stick to meat.
If the sauce seems too thin after straining, increase the heat and reduce it further until it hits the desired viscosity.
The foam that rises to the top during the simmer contains impurities; skimming it ensures a clean, glossy finish.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use beef stock instead of veal?
You can, though veal stock contains more natural collagen which gives the sauce a superior mouthfeel and shine.
Why did my sauce turn out grainy?
The roux likely wasn't cooked enough, or the liquid was added too quickly. Ensure your roux is smooth before the first ladle of stock goes in.
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