Cacio e Pepe
This dish is a study in friction and heat. When done right, the cheese melts into a creamy bond that coats every strand of pasta without a drop of cream or butter.
Temperature is the only variable that matters
If the pasta water is boiling when the cheese hits it, the proteins will seize into rubbery clumps. Have a splash of cold water ready to temper the pan.
- large skillet
- tongs
- microplane or fine grater
What goes in.
- 8 ozspaghetti or tonnarelli
- 1.5 cupsPecorino Romano, finely grated
- 2 tspwhole black peppercorns, toasted and freshly cracked
- to tastekosher salt (for pasta water)
Creating the Paste
Mix your grated cheese with a ladle of starchy pasta water in a separate bowl to form a thick, cohesive paste before adding it to the skillet. This prevents the shock of direct heat.
The method.
Toast the pepper
Crush the peppercorns coarsely with a mortar and pestle or the flat of a knife. Toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat until they become fragrant and begin to smoke slightly.
Boil the pasta
Cook the pasta in about half the water you would normally use; a higher starch concentration is vital. Pull the pasta two minutes before the package suggests for al dente.
Build the base
Add a ladle of the pasta water to the skillet with the toasted pepper. Let it simmer, then remove the pan from the heat entirely.
Emulsify
Add the pasta to the skillet. Gradually stir in the cheese paste, using your tongs to toss vigorously. Add small splashes of room-temperature water if the sauce looks tight or pasty.
Other turns to take.
Cacio e Pepe with Guanciale
Render cubes of guanciale in the skillet first, remove the meat, and use the fat to toast the pepper for an added layer of richness.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a block of Pecorino Romano and grate it yourself; pre-grated cheese contains cellulose that prevents smooth melting.
Do not over-salt the pasta water, as the Pecorino is naturally quite saline.
If the sauce breaks, stop stirring immediately and let the pan cool for thirty seconds before adding a tiny amount of cold water and tossing again.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use Parmigiano-Reggiano instead?
You can, but it is less salty and melts differently than Pecorino. Many cooks use a 50/50 blend to balance the sharp bite of the sheep's milk cheese.
Why did my cheese turn into a ball?
The pan was too hot. Always pull the skillet off the burner completely before introducing the cheese mixture.
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