Stir-Fried Morning Glory with Garlic and Chili
This dish relies on the stark contrast between the hollow, crunchy stems and the tender leaves. It is the definitive side dish for a reason: it cuts through rich, oily main courses with its bright, garlicky snap.
Manage your moisture
Wash the morning glory thoroughly, then dry it completely using a salad spinner or a clean kitchen towel. Wet greens will steam in the wok instead of searing, turning the vibrant green stalks into a muddy, limp mess.
- Wok or heavy carbon steel skillet
- Spider strainer or tongs
- Chef's knife
What goes in.
- 1 lbfresh morning glory, cleaned and cut into 3-inch lengths
- 4 clovesgarlic, smashed and minced
- 2Thai bird's eye chilies, sliced thinly
- 1 tbspfermented soybean paste or yellow bean sauce
- 1 tbspneutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
- 1 tspfish sauce
Aggressive Heat
Your wok needs to be smoking before the oil hits the pan. If the oil isn't hot enough, the garlic will boil in the oil rather than infusing it, and the greens will release their water too early.
The method.
Prepare the aromatics
Separate the thick stem segments from the leafy tops. You will add the stems to the pan thirty seconds before the leaves.
Heat the wok
Place your wok over the highest heat setting your stove allows. Add the oil and tilt the pan to coat the sides.
Bloom the aromatics
Toss in the garlic and chilies. Stir constantly for about 10 seconds until the garlic turns golden brown and releases a sharp, pungent aroma.
Sear the stems
Drop in the stems. Stir-fry for 30 seconds until they turn bright emerald. Add the fermented soybean paste and stir to coat.
Finish the leaves
Add the leafy tops and the fish sauce. Toss vigorously for another 30 to 45 seconds. Stop the moment the leaves wilt but still retain their structure.
Serve immediately
Transfer to a plate right away. Do not leave the greens in the hot wok, or residual heat will ruin the texture.
Other turns to take.
Shrimp Paste Version
Replace the soybean paste with 1 teaspoon of fermented shrimp paste (belacan) for a more intense, ocean-forward salinity.
Crispy Pork Addition
Add cubes of fried pork belly or crispy lardons with the garlic to introduce a rich, meaty texture to the stir-fry.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Cut the stems at an angle to increase the surface area, allowing them to absorb more sauce.
If you have a home stove that doesn't get hot enough, work in two smaller batches to ensure the wok doesn't lose heat.
Do not add salt; the fermented bean paste and fish sauce contain enough sodium for the entire dish.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my morning glory turn dark and watery?
Usually because the pan was overcrowded or the heat wasn't high enough. Working in batches and using a very hot pan prevents the greens from stewing in their own juices.
Can I use spinach instead?
You can use spinach, but the cooking time must be halved. Spinach is far more delicate and will turn to mush if treated with the same timing as morning glory stems.
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