Making Proper Mashed Potatoes
Good mashed potatoes are a study in temperature and mechanics. If you start with cold water and finish with hot fats, you achieve a result that is creamy rather than starchy or gluey.
Use the right starch
Starchy potatoes like Russets or Yukon Golds are mandatory; waxy potatoes will never break down enough to become truly smooth.
- large pot
- potato ricer or food mill
- saucepan
- rubber spatula
What goes in.
- 2.5 lbRusset or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into uniform 2-inch chunks
- 1 cupwhole milk or heavy cream
- 8 tbspunsalted butter, cubed
- 1.5 tspkosher salt, plus more to taste
Evaporating the moisture
Once the potatoes are drained, return them to the empty, hot pot over low heat for two minutes. This dries out the surface of the potato, allowing them to absorb the butter and milk later.
The method.
Start in cold water
Place the potatoes in the pot and cover with cold water by an inch. Add a heavy pinch of salt. Bringing them up to a boil slowly ensures the center cooks at the same rate as the exterior.
Simmer until tender
Once boiling, drop to a simmer. Cook until a paring knife slides through a chunk with zero resistance, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Dry the potatoes
Drain the water. Return the potatoes to the pot over low heat, shaking the pot gently for 2 minutes until they look floury and white.
Warm the dairy
While the potatoes are steaming, melt the butter and warm the milk in a separate small saucepan. Do not boil it; just get it hot.
Rice and fold
Pass the hot potatoes through a ricer directly into the pot. Slowly fold in the hot butter and milk with a spatula until incorporated.
Other turns to take.
Garlic Infused
Steep two smashed cloves of garlic in the milk while you warm it, then discard the cloves before adding the milk to the potatoes.
Chive and Sour Cream
Replace half the milk with sour cream and fold in a quarter-cup of minced fresh chives at the very end.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never use a food processor; the blades release too much starch and turn the potatoes into a gluey paste.
Always add the fat while the potatoes are still steaming hot so the starch fibers absorb the butter instead of just coating them.
If the potatoes feel too stiff, add more warm milk one tablespoon at a time.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why do my mashed potatoes get gluey?
Usually, this happens because they were overworked. Use a ricer to keep the starch structure intact.
Can I make these ahead of time?
You can, but they lose texture as they sit. If you must, keep them in a slow cooker on the lowest setting and add a splash of warm milk before serving to loosen them up.
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