Braised Black-Eyed Peas
This is a dish of patience, where the peas soften into a structure that holds their shape but yields instantly to the tooth. When done correctly, the liquid should coat the back of a spoon, binding the peas together with the salt and smokiness of the pork.
Mind the salt
Do not add salt until the final twenty minutes of cooking. Adding salt too early toughens the skins of the peas and prevents them from reaching a buttery consistency.
- Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven
- Wooden spoon
- Colander
What goes in.
- 1 lbdried black-eyed peas, rinsed and picked over
- 4 ozthick-cut bacon, diced
- 1 largeyellow onion, finely diced
- 3 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 4 cupschicken or vegetable stock
- 1dried bay leaf
- To tastekosher salt and black pepper
Watching the liquid turn to velvet
In the final stage, remove the lid and increase the heat slightly. The goal is to evaporate the excess stock until the remaining liquid clings to the peas as a glossy, thick coating.
The method.
Render the fat
Place the bacon in the Dutch oven over medium heat. Cook until the fat has rendered and the edges turn crisp, about 8 minutes.
Sauté aromatics
Add the onion to the bacon fat. Cook until the onion turns translucent and begins to catch a light brown color on the edges, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic for 30 seconds.
Combine
Add the peas to the pot, stirring to coat them in the rendered fat. Pour in the stock until it covers the peas by about an inch. Add the bay leaf.
Braise
Bring the liquid to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cover. Simmer for 90 minutes, checking occasionally to ensure the liquid level remains just above the peas.
Finish
Remove the lid and increase heat to medium. Cook for another 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces to a thick glaze. Season with salt and pepper only after testing a pea for tenderness.
Other turns to take.
Vegetarian
Replace the bacon with two tablespoons of smoked paprika and a splash of soy sauce to replicate the deep, savory profile.
Greens-heavy
Stir in four cups of chopped collard greens or kale during the final 15 minutes of simmering.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the stock reduces too quickly before the peas are tender, add a splash of boiling water to keep them submerged.
Let the finished dish sit for 10 minutes off the heat before serving; the sauce will thicken further as it cools slightly.
Use a heavy lid to keep the steam trapped, which keeps the peas cooking evenly throughout.
The ones that keep coming up.
Should I soak the peas overnight?
It is not necessary for dried black-eyed peas. They have thin skins and will rehydrate sufficiently during the two-hour braise.
How do I know when they are done?
A finished pea should be creamy inside without being mushy. If it feels grainy or firm in the center, keep cooking.