Braising Greens in Pork Fat
Braising greens requires rendering firm pork fat until it provides a base for cooking the leaves down slowly in their own moisture. The goal is to soften the fibrous stems while retaining the bright integrity of the leaves, moving from raw volume to a silky, concentrated heap.
Texture is the objective
The pork fat should be cut into small cubes to ensure an even render, and the greens must be washed thoroughly to remove grit, then dried enough so they don't steam into a mush.
- Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or cast-iron skillet
- Tongs
- Chef's knife
What goes in.
- 4 ozpork belly or fatback, diced into 1/4-inch cubes
- 2 lbcollard, mustard, or turnip greens, stems trimmed and leaves torn
- 2 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 1/2 cupwater or chicken stock
- to tastered pepper flakes and sea salt
Low and slow rendering
Start the pork fat in a cold pan over low heat, allowing it to liquefy without burning the solids. You want clear, shimmering fat; if it turns brown too quickly, the flavor will be acrid rather than sweet.
The method.
Render the fat
Place the diced pork in the cold Dutch oven. Turn heat to medium-low. Let it cook until the bits turn golden brown and crisp, roughly 10 minutes.
Aromatize
Add the smashed garlic cloves to the hot fat. Cook for 30 seconds until they color slightly, then discard the cloves if you want only a hint of flavor, or leave them in for intensity.
Wilting the greens
Add the greens in large handfuls. Use tongs to toss them in the pork fat until they begin to wilt. They will take up significant space initially but collapse rapidly.
The braise
Pour in the water or stock. Cover the pot immediately with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce heat to low and let them steam in the fat-enriched liquid for 20 to 25 minutes.
Finish
Remove the lid. If there is significant liquid left, increase heat to high for 2 minutes to reduce the sauce until it coats the leaves. Season with salt and pepper flakes.
Other turns to take.
Vinegar Finish
Add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar at the very end to cut the richness of the pork fat.
Smoked Meat
Use smoked ham hock or jowl instead of fresh pork fat for a deeper, earthier profile.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Dry your washed greens well; excess water makes them boil rather than braise.
Do not discard the stems; chop them into half-inch pieces and add them to the pan two minutes before the leaves to ensure they soften.
If using mustard greens, they will cook faster than collards; check for tenderness at the 15-minute mark.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know the greens are done?
The leaves should be tender enough to melt against the roof of your mouth, and the stems should lose all crunch, bending easily when pressed.
Can I use bacon instead of pork fat?
Yes, but bacon is saltier. Reduce the amount of added salt at the end of the cooking process.